1. If you don't need the heater, there is no problem looping the coolant
from the manifold to the return pipe.
As long as the coolant can circulate through the Inlet manifold to reduce
the risk of icing up, all should be well.
2. Most modern thermostats incorporate a burp valve to allow air trapped on
the engine side of the thermostat to bleed up into the top radiator tank. It
is a 2-3mm hole with a small "jiggle Valve" assembled in the hole. If your
thermo. doesn't have this valve you can simply bore a 3mm hole in the themo.
to do the same thing.
You can see the little brass jiggle valve in this pic.
Just orient the valve to the highest part of the housing, usually the very
front.
"1. I am considering removing the cooling hose loop to the heater
valve
and just running the outlet on the back of the intake manifold directly to
the pipe that sits on the inside of the heat shield. My heater fan does not
work, ducts are missing, and I don't plan on driving on days where it will
be an
issue. It would also clean things up a bit. Are there any issues with
this
approach. BTW I am missing the summer/winder valve assembly and have a
cheap plastic adapter in its place right now - ugly.
2. I thought I should fill up the block with coolant through the top
of
the head before attaching the thermostat housing. Then follow that up with
filling the radiator once the housing is attached. That way I don't need to
manually open the thermostat to get the coolant in the block for initial
startup.
I am sure I will have more questions in the following days. Thanks in
advance for your wisdom.
Thanks,
Alan"
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