Back in the late 60s my first BSR U20 rebuild used the dome top R16 pistons
(fly cut for valve clearance) and a milled head(can't remember how much) for
around a 12.5 CR.
Couple that with considerable spark advance and it was too much for the
stock starter. My cheap fix was to install a toggle switch for the ignition
and a separate starter button.
The starter did a good job of cranking against the compression alone, so I
would hit the starter button, get the engine turning and then hit the
ignition switch, usually caught on the first attempt. Guess I was luck that
it was always an easy starting engine.
P.S The next rebuild the compression was dialed back to 11.7, where it still
is today.
Jerry Krakauer
SRL311 00099
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul" <9laser3@bright.net>
To: "'Gary and Cindy Ault'" <aultgc@att.net>; "'Keith Downing'"
<keithddowning@yahoo.com>; "'Datsun E-Mail List'"
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Might as well... Smart upgrades while the engine
and trans are out?
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Gary and Cindy Ault
>
> A racer in Ohio said the gear reduction starter is needed to crank their
> high-compression race-prepared 1600. OK, I'll buy that, but for a stock
> motor....???
> *********************
>
> At Sloan Racing, we have gear reduction starters on both 1600 race
> roadsters, but these are 12+:1 compression motors designed and built to
> run
> from 4000 to 8000 rpms. They don't like to start when cold and they
> really
> don't like to idle. Those of us on the crew that drive roadsters, have
> always used stock U20 starters. The 1600 stock starter leaves a bit to be
> desired, being an older design and a bit too long to get in and out. The
> only reason to use a G/R starter with a stock motor is bragging rights?
>
> Paul
> Ohio
> ________________________________________
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