As far as I know, the weights are all the same, but the distributor cam and
springs differ from non-smog to smog set-ups. Put a non-smog (7.5) cam and
springs into the distributor. Set it at 16 degrees BTDC (20 degrees for
Solex cars) at 700 rpm and forget it.
And, both the 1600 and 2000 can be made to idle at 500 rpm if everything is
correct.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Peters" <ppeters914@comcast.net>
To: "'Roadster list'" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Distributor work
> You do realize you replaced a non-smog advance curve distributor (the '66)
> with a smog advance curve distributor (the '70), or does "...including the
> weights and springs" means you put the '66 non-smog weights and springs
> into
> the '70 smog dizzy?
>
> Non-smog: 7.5, which produces 15 degrees of advance
> Smog: 17.5, which produces 35 degrees of advance
>
> More info in the 311s.org TechWiki:
>
> <http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.DistributorTroubleS
> hootingByGaryBoone>
>
> I'll let the dizzy guru's chime in with more.
>
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Kersch
> Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:22 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters @autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Distributor work
>
> I replaced the original 66 distributor with one from a 1970, including the
> weights and springs. Specs say mechanical advance begins below 500rpm and
> is
> full out at 1800 Rpm, no way will our cars idle at 500. So when I first
> start the car after a bunch of work on the carbs etc it idled at 1000. So
> is
> it best to set my timing light for basic+full mechanical advance (10+7.5)
> at
> 2000 rpm?
> And then add vac advance to timing light and goose the throttle?
>
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