The books have a cold setting to get things close, but the final
adjustment should always be done on a hot motor!
Paul
Ohio
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Peters
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 10:55 AM
To: Datsun Roadster List
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] rough running H20 after head gasket change
Don't know if it's the problem, but I thought it was better to adjust the
valves warm:
<http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.ValveAdjustment>
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steven boortz
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:30 PM
To: roadsters
Subject: [Roadsters] rough running H20 after head gasket change
hi everyone
last weekend i discovered that i had a blown head gasket on my H20 (gary
boone eDizzy, 44PHHs, cam, head work, etc). after a week of chasing parts
(thanks dean apostle and thanks stan chernoff!) and services (thanks mark
degroff!, who's not on the list, but i still wanted to thank), the head is
back on and it's all put together.
i adjusted the valves once, when cold, before start-up.
the thing is, it's running like crap. it's very rough at anything above
idle. i thought i had a timing light, but i guess not. but no matter where i
position the distributor, it does not improve.
anyone close to highland park (northeast los angeles) that would be willing
to trade some lunch tomorrow for some of their expertise? i would really
appreciate it. i was supposed to be at the track this weekend, but the
headgasket put me way behind. any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance
steve
675MIZU
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