hi. that helped. i uploaded some more pictures
(www.ranteer.com/davescars/datsun) . it kind of runs now, but a bit
roughly. i think there are only two places to adjust; the fine adjust you
spoke of, and the other is not where the stalk meets the block but at the
base of the active part of the dizzy. am i missing something?
another kind fellow suggested that the points are in need of replacement, so
i shall do that as well.
thanks for your help. any other advice?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graeme" <graemes@internode.on.net>
To: "'oliver'" <sumton@sbcglobal.net>; "'datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net'"
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] ealry 1600 trouble idling and running
> From what I can tell the points cam is indeed quite retarded if the engine
> is at TDC for #1.
> You will need to release the clamp[s] on the distributor housing and
> rotate
> the distributor body ANTI clock wise to ADVANCE the points cam relative to
> the rotor position.
> Make double sure the crank is at TDC or as your website comment says,
> ~15deg
> BTDC for cyl #1 on compression.
> Loosen and rotate the distributor body until the points just open.
> You can determine that by having the ignition ON and a 12V test lamp or
> Voltmeter across the points.
> When the points open, the lamp will light or the Voltmeter will indicate
> 12V.
> That should be close enough to run the engine.
> Final adjustment can be done with a timing light on #1 plug lead.
> Remember, there are TWO clamps on the distributor housing.
> One is a COARSE adjustment [where it attaches to the engine block], the
> pther is a FINE adjustment [where the graduated plate is].
> Set it up with the coarse adjustment initially, then you can use the
> graduated plate and pointer to fine tune the timing.
> The plate and pointer will then indicate ADV or RET from this base
> setting.
>
> " These pictures illustrate the various pieces all at top dead center.
> You
> can see the timing mark right at the first one (the angle makes it look
> wrong); the rotor pointing exactly to the #1 spark plug wire, but the
> points
> are just opening and the "bump" where it pushes the points apart to fire
> is
> in the wrong place. And I don't know how to adjust that, or how it got so
> far off."
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