Check to see that there is voltage on the + terminal of the coil. There
should be a wire from that terminal to one connection on the ignition
ballast resistor. The other ballast connection should have battery
voltage on it. If you don't have battery voltage, then you probably have
a defective ignition switch, or wire from the switch to the ballast.
Depending on whether the points are closed or not, the voltage on the +
coil terminal and ballast terminal will either be battery voltage, or
about 8V.
If you have battery voltage on the coil + terminal, rock the engine over
until the points will be closed (one of the compression strokes) and
verify that the voltage on the - coil terminal is close to zero. At this
time the + coil terminal should be around 8V. If you have 12V on the
coil - all the time, then the points, wire inside the distributor, or
coil to distributor is bad or loose.
Oh, it could also be the condenser across the points too, if it is
shorted (not likely).
I suspect that there is something wrong with one of these voltages.
Get back with me if you need more assistance.
Remind me what year your car is please. There is slightly different
wiring around the coil on the '70 cars.
Peace,
Pat
Thusly spake Peter Harrison, On 2/1/2009 3:43 PM:
> Somewhat further on in diagnosis.
>
> Tested the coil in another car (Linda's) and it works. However when installed
> back on Eliza, there is NO spark from the coil.
>
> Any thoughts??
>
> Thx
>
> Peter
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Pat Horne 512.797.7501
Owner, Horne Systems pat@hornesystemstx.com
5026 FM 2001 Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
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