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[Roadsters] Eastwood's rust encapsulator--replies received

To: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net"
Subject: [Roadsters] Eastwood's rust encapsulator--replies received
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 9:54:26 -0500
Here are the replies I recieved:

I've used similar products and Zero Rust (Not sure that's the correct name 
but the Zero part is right.)
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I have used the Eastwood product and it did beat rust down.  It is called for 
in applications where the rust cannot be removed.  I feel better grinding the 
rust down as completely as possible first and using the POR15 system.  
Following the steps carefully is very time consuming but once I did skip the 
chemical wash and etching steps (the kit used to come without these items) and 
the rust did return.
 
It is very helpful to have a coffee ladel and heat gun when using POR15.  The 
ladel is because you don't want any of the paint that you remove to return to 
the container.  The heat gun because after the rinsing and etching the metal 
must be completely dry.  If you get any of the POR15 paint on your hands it is 
a two week tattoo.  So use gloves.
 
Here's the POR15 website:  www.por15.com
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I've used this product and love it!   I still have some test pieces out in 
the weather and the coated sections are still rust free.  Good stuff. 
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        I used this on a Datsun Pickup project a few years ago.  A little too  
soon to know if it works better than Rust-oleum, but it went on fine,  
covered well, smoothed over rust pits okay.  Awfully expensive though.
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Eastwood sold POR-15 when it first came out and then switched over to 
another brand. I can't speak for the new brand but I used POR-15 and 
associated products with outstanding success.
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I poured it inside my frame to seal it off after I had it sandblasted.  I 
don't really have any history of how it lasts or anything--the rolling 
chassis is still in my garage. 
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I have used it on my roadster.  I had great success on the interior section 
of my car, and wherever their was some minor surface rust.  It bonded well. 
 
I had a problem in the engine bay area.  I did not strip it down completely. 
Instead, I just cleaned and scuffed the paint.  It seemed fine, but when we 
began the actual priming and painting, it began to peel.  So I am guessing 
that it is better suited to bonding of metal, than a painted surface. 
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