My fuel and temperature gauges are both inoperative. I understand
that the gauge voltage regulator is the likely culprit, correct? I
was wondering if anyone has successfully used the 510 part (one of the
vendors suggests that it can be done). Is there a downside? I can
get the 510 part for $27 versus $85ish for the roadster version.
I'm going to have a look at the one I have... clean up the contacts,
etc., but I'm also looking ahead at a replacement.
--
Dave Riedel
'69 2000
Victoria, BC
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