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"Every time I have blasting done, it's been a pain in the ass to get all the
particles out of the crevices. You never get all the debris and end up
either painting over it or having it blow out onto your paint job when the
sprayer hits it."
Go over the whole area with a fine nozzle air gun using medium to high
pressure and use a stiff paint brush in all the cracks and crevices to free
up trapped debris. Follow up with a good vacuuming again with the
paintbrush.
Use goggles and a respirator. What doesn't come out then deserves to stay
there!
"Plus, blasting leaves a texture on the panels that I then have to sand down
before primer".
The etch primer should love that texture!
"I've settled on Aircraft Stripper and 3M RoLocs. Blasting is for hunky
parts that are going to get powder coated.
I agree, but the media blasting gets where the stripper and wheels can't.
The 3M poduct in Oz is called Clean'n'Strip wheels
I recommend a combination of these methods [excluding Soda!!], if you are
determined to get ALL areas back to BARE METAL.
Now, about Soda Blasting.
EXCELLENT for CLEANING and STRIPPING!!
NOT SUITABLE IF YOU WANT TO RE-PAINT THE ITEM!!
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Nissanman on 311s.org posted a very interesting article regarding Soda
Blasting cars and the problems that ensue with paint adhesion. In very
brief summary: you must very carefully neutralize the residue or paint will
literally peel off. Soda's claim to fame comes from it's ability to not
warp panels due to abrasion heat and not requiring excessively high
pressures to achieve paint removal. I've not used it so do your own
research before jumping onto it. The gist of the article Nissanman posed
was that it was NOT as much of a blessing as it appears to be.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1206 - Release Date: 1/01/2008
12:09 PM
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