Actually, I've seen alot of gains from a true Ram Air setup (again, not
on a roadster), but the key is to actually build pressure 9r shall we
say "reduce vacuum"). Most ram-air setups don't scavenge efficiently,
or seal well enough. And then I agree with you that ANY obstruction will
negate the potential for gain.
Graeme wrote:
> "How do you compensate for the loss of the venturi stacks that are built
> into the stock air cleaner?"
>
> Good point, they would have to be replaced possibly with some conventional
> straight ram tubes/velocity stacks. An alternative to expensive ram tubes is
> four monumental vases. These are made of spun aluminium and have a full
> radiused edge on the throat. I bought 4 of these to build some ram tubes for
> a set of individual throttle bodies I am making for an FJ20.
>
>
> "Has anyone stuck a temp probe under the hood against (or inside) the air
> cleaner to determine if the existing air is really that hot (at speed, not
> at idle)?"
>
> Haven't with a Roadster but years ago when I got my FJ20 engine conversion
> running in my 510, I started off with a simple underbonnet intake for the
> plastic box air cleaner. The Haltec ECU has an inlet air temp sensor which I
> was monitoring on a laptop. The inlet temps. were through the roof! I then
> built a 75mm plastic duct to run from the base of the aircleaner box to the
> radiator panel. It was then taking air from outside the engine bay. Can't
> remember the actual numbers but the intake temp dropped from 60+deg C to
> ambient, just like that. The reason I used a 75mm duct was that I had a
> selection of stormwater fittings in the garage doing nothing :)
> I could feel the engine was a LOT stronger when accellerating and was really
> potent on a cool morning!!
>
> Once you route the intake air through an air cleaner, panel or round, any
> ram air affect is largely lost in my opinion.
>
>
>
>
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> 11:36 AM
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