Hokay- technically, if you were really dealing with 'power',
140 watts at 12 volts is something like 12 amps.
Which would tax your system mightily, especially
if you've added extra lights, etc.
But that's, pardon my French, horseshit.
A "140 watt" stereo will probably take, on average, 3 or 4 amps from your
system.
So the stock roadster can power it just fine.
BUT the way they get away with calling it a '140 watt' stereo is that it
can have PEAKS of 12 amps or more. So you'll need big wiring
(12 gauge is plenty) to let it pull that much. Also give it a healthy 12ga
ground
to a good, shiny spot. Some fanatics run a ground wire back to the battery-
might be overkill, but the thinking's sound. heh heh...
Personally, I'd connect the main power lead to the battery, with a 20a fuse.
The alternator is electrically noisy, while the battery is quiet as a...
battery?
Too many words,
Toby
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Graeme" <graemes@internode.on.net>
> Will the stock electrical system handle this system? From what I read it is
> a 140 watt system. Will the stock alternator handle this? Any other
> suggestions?
>
> Keith has suggested an alternator and wiring upgrade.
> Absolutely essential.
> I would advise you to piggyback a new 12V feed from the alternator through a
> new fuse block/circuit breaker to supply your Hi-Fi.
> I think the 140W is the music power output, not the 12V consumption??
> Don't let that new alt. drive the existing wiring without additional
> protection also.
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