If you're talking about copper lines, there's not a lot needed in the way of
tools - a push button ignition propane torch, a tubing cutter, some coarse
steel wool, a wire brush made for inside of fittings, a flux brush, and
safety glasses. Materials are copper pipe, various fittings, flux, and
lead-free solder. A scrap of aluminum roof flashing can be used as a heat
shied to keep flame off joists, etc.
Start by finding the bad section. Cut replacement pipe(s) and select
fittings to match the bad section. Test assemble your replacement
section( just dry fit, no solder) and hold it up to the exisiting bad to
check fit. You're going to need an end-to-end ( butt-joint) fitting at each
end to fit the replacement in.
Then turn off the water at the supply/entry valve, open a faucet at the
highest point, then one at the lowest point to drain the system.
Cut out the bad section, and double check the fit of the replacement
section. If its ok, then take apart the dry assembly.
Brighten outside of pipe ends with steel wool, and inside of fittings with
brush ( don't forget the two cut ends of the existing plumbing). Apply flux
to both parts of each joint, slip it all together into place, and solder.
Soldering involves heating the joint until solder will melt, holding the end
of the solder roll against the joint, and letting the solder get sucked into
the joint. Don't solder directly overhead - melted solder on your cheek
hurts like a b**ch.
Let cool completely. Close the lowest faucet, turn on the supply valve, let
the wter run on the highest faucet until the air is gone, then turn it off
and check you work. A helper and a set of walkies will make this easier
since you'll be under the house....
The big box stores ( Home Depot, Lowes) have regular training / demo
sessions on soldering plumbing. Maybe call them and find out their
schedule.
One trick I learned from my dad that I'll pass along - if one of the cut
ends won't stop dripping, and keeps getting your fittings wet, roll up a
piece of white bread and use it as a temporary plug into the pipe. It will
dissolveonce the water is back on. Has saved me grief on more than one
occasion.
Datsun content: The R and the Z are tucked away for the Ohio winter ( such
that its been so far....)
Mark Sedlack
ZROC OROC
Cuyahoga Falls OH
66 1600 http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
77 280Z http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
----- Original Message -----
From: "oliver" <sumton@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 10:03 AM
Subject: slightly off topic
> hi, all.
>
> i live in a house from the 50's, and the hot water pipes like to spring a
> leak. since its pier and beam, the plumber has to crawl down into the
crawl
> space (aptly named!!!) and fix it. due to safety issues, he has to have a
> spotter. bottom line, the last leak cost me almost $400!!!!
>
> i'm thinking brazing can't be that hard.
>
> i just know a bunch of you consider this sort of thing child's play, so
i'm
> looking for advice on tools, books, websites, etc from someone aspiring to
> be an amateur plumber!!!
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