I also have the head stud kit but have not installed it yet....roadster
stuff is on hold till September.
What I read in Corkey Bells book about head studs was very illuminating.
You have to make sure that the stud is not bottoming in the threaded hole.
He also says to chamfer away the first thread in the hole so that the
non-threaded part of the stud bears against it. In this way you preload the
block in tension and when you tighten the head down you take out the
pre-loaded tension and can have a stronger clamping force on the head but
less net tension on the block.
Did that make sense??
I would hope that the threaded part of the studs from Dean are short
enough to be able to do this.
Daniel Neuman
Oakland Ca
69 2000
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
gregs672liter@netzero.net
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:17 AM
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: ARP, the result
Well, talked to ARP this morning... seems that I did over torque the bolt
due
to the synthetic oil... should have been about 65lbs not 80lbs. Normally I
tap the holes, clean them out etc etc but I was in a hurry... that will
teach
me! Talked to Dean who is expediting out another kit (he even gave me a
break
on the price even though it was my fault... this is the first one that has
broken... leave it to me!), so soon, soon it will be running again! Learn
from my mistakes... always tap and clean your head bolt holes even if you
are
in a hurry!
Greg
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