Fred,
Pretty much anything that makes the water conductive will work. I've
used baking soda and even salt. While the salt works I wasn't comfortable with
being able to get it all off when I was done. I also do antique engines and
that community swears by the electrolysis process. One thing that is
interesting is that the process is pretty much line of sight so you need to
turn pieces
over to get the back side. 2 amps seems a little low for large parts, you
might throw in a little more soda. The anode (positive) side sure gets eaten
up
but the cathode (negative) does not seem to be attacked at all, the rust
just comes off. Just make sure and not get your leads backwards.
keith
In a message dated 2/9/2006 11:03:06 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
roadster@rcn.com writes:
I've got questions about electrolysis rust removal, for those that use
this process. Most websites I researched say to use washing soda. Not
having any on hand, I used baking soda. I put 8 gallons of water in a
plastic tub, and added 1 tablespoon baking soda per gallon. Attached a
positive lead of my battery charger to a 6 x 6 steel plate dangling in
the tub. And attached the negative lead to a large body part (not my
personal body, but trunk lid pieces I separated with an air chisel).
It seems to work, hydrogen bubbles stream off the negative connected
part while converting the rust to iron. And oxygen coming off the
positive plate. (Yes, the tub is outside with air circulation.)
My question is, if I were to use washing soda would the electrolyte
solution make the current too strong for my battery charger (too much
current flow)? Am I better off with the baking soda, which maybe dilutes
the effect of the electrolyte and it's ability to pass a strong current
flow? I'm using a 20amp charger at 12 volts; it has a meter that shows a
2 amp current flow.
I'm trying to minimize the loss of steel in a bunch of body parts I'm
restoring. Grinding and sanding would be too destructive.
Fred - So.SF
BADROC
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