I gave all my existing brake lines and fittings to the shop. All that came
back screwed on fine and tightened up okay. I am fairly confident that the
proper fittings are on my lines. I did go fairly tight but just used common
sense when tightening. Did not want to go to far. I have stripped and
snapped off my share of regular bolts. I did not want to do that here. I
did find that I could reposition some joints to stop the leaks some time
back. I am surprised that this process is so finicky. I could not get a
good look at the nipple type seats in the brake proportioning valve. To
dark to get a good view. Thought about stuffing some of my kid's playdough
in there to get an impression but don't want to have to clean out that mess.
I watched one of those chop/cut/rebuild shows recently and saw the guy
putting some "goop" on the copper crush washers that make up the connector
at those brass block connectors. What did he use and why? Are the new
crush washers hard to seat? Larry.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Keith0alan@aol.com>
To: <roadster68@shaw.ca>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Line Mystery
> Larry,
>
> The roadster should be all SAE fittings. The metric ones are just a
> little bigger and should not fit. Now, you can put SAE lines into the
> metric
> cylinders but only the tips of the threads catch and strip out very
> easily. I've
> done a few flares on brake tubes and find that you need to be careful to
> get
> them just right and have had to redo them sometimes. It's worth trying to
> take the leaky joint apart, clean it up good and put it back together.
> Just
> loosening and resnugging will help them seal also. Make sure the line is
> resting
> square in the fitting before tightening it. If the nut is bending and
> pulling
> the line it's likely to not seat square. The brakes are about a 1000 psi
> system and the joints can be a little tricky some times.
>
> keith
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