Mike,
That would be a 50* discrepancy (210 to 160)! Was it running at 180*, which
is near where it should be running?
What temp would be best to run at? My car has always run at about 190*,
which is the midpoint of the gauge, so thought that was where it was
supposed to be. If 180* or 170* would be better for power / efficiency, I
can play with things to try to get it down there (thermostat, fan temp
switch, etc.).
thanks
Daryl
----- Original Message -----
From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
To: "Daryl Smith" <drlsmith@telus.net>; "Datsun Roadster List"
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2005 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: Motor break- in, was SU setup for 1800cc
> You should make sure the gauge is correct. That happened to me using and
> aftermarket temp sender but in reality it was running at 160* rather than
> an indicated 210*
>
> The guy who bought my car told me my temp gauge is off by 30* after he
> tested the rad and rad hoses using an IR thermometer and a special tool he
> has for his business and that's with a OEM sender and a fairly new gauge.
>
> 70lbs isn't bad - my car ran an estimated 60lbs.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Daryl Smith" <drlsmith@telus.net>
> To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2005 6:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Motor break- in, was SU setup for 1800cc
>
>
>> First off, Thank you for all the advice on first startup and breaking in
>> the engine.
>>
>> Fired up the stroker last weekend, it sounded very good but, I had a
>> couple of hiccups.
>>
>> 1. the exhaust manifold @ cylinders 2&3 only was turning a bright cherry
>> red. I richened the mixture till it was not red. Forgot to check the
>> timing, but pretty sure that is alright.
>>
>> 2. About the time I had the mixture richened the temp was hitting just
>> over 200*, and the damn lower rad hose came off the rad! Anti-freeze and
>> steam all over the place! The girlfreind came out figuring I'd blown it
>> up!
>> Nobody scalded, no problems elsewhere, we checked it over and found some
>> knucklehead had forgotten to tighten the clamp. (me) :-(
>>
>> 3. The GM temp switch I pulled from the wrecking yard ($2) didn't work so
>> I had to rig up the electric fan to work manually until I get a working
>> switch.
>>
>> 4. After refilling the cooling system, we fired it up for another try.
>> Everything seemed to be going well. Good oil pressure (~70 psi @
>> 2200rpm), temp rising slowly, no leaks anywhere. hmm. Temp gauge kept
>> rising slowly. Richened the mixture some more. About the time it hit 230*
>> and was not coming down, even with the electric fan on we shut it down.
>> Had to put it away for other commitments. !&%$##!!!!
>>
>> All told, somewhere between 10 and 15 minutes running time with both
>> efforts.
>>
>> Checked it over a couple days later and had no coolant at the top of the
>> rad, so I guess my efforts at "burping" it weren't good enough. Hoping to
>> be able to give it another go sometime over the next week, if we get some
>> decent weather. I'll top the rad off, check the timing, and probably
>> richen the mixture a bit more for the next round.
>>
>> Any other suggestions welcome!
>>
>> On the positive side, I now know all my Classic Instruments gauges work
>> (except for the speedo - no driving time yet). Tach works off the EDIS
>> module CTO output. :-)
>>
>> Is 70 psi a little high for a stroker with a U20 oil pump? Running good
>> quality 10W30 dino oil.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Daryl
>> '66 R series pain in the arse!
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