Yeah, that one's a ton of fun to get at, isn't it? I usually wind up kind of
"embracing" the carbs and passing an open-end wrench back and forth from
right-hand fingertips to left-hand fingertips. Just pray the PO still had
the small manifold nuts that use a 12mm wrench rather than the
hardware-store ones that require a 13mm.
I've found that with some headers you can actually pull the head with the
manifolds still attached. Pulling the starter first helps a lot, but I've
managed to do it on my car without even doing that. You wind up standing up
in the engine compartment and wrestling the whole mess up off the engine.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@Autox.Team.Net
> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@Autox.Team.Net]On Behalf Of Ronnie Day
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 4:33 PM
> To: Roadster List
> Subject: A Couple of engine questions
>
>
> FINALLY taking the time to pull the head on the 2000 and hit a snag trying
> to get the lower manifold nuts off, or more accurately trying to
> get to the
> nuts so I can take them off. Exhaust is a block hugging header and there's
> not room to get my arm in there. Pulled the alternator hoping I
> could get to
> them from the front, but no way (that I see) can I reach the ones
> under the
> rear carb from the front. Access from the rear is very tight even
> if I could
> get the rear coolant fitting off without destroying it. It's pretty ragged
> already. Anyway, is there a "trick" to getting to the lower nuts?
>
> Also, is that rear manifold coolant fitting, and the front
> coolant fitting,
> a fat "T", still available? They're both are a bit rough, the rear one in
> particular. Might as well replace them while I have things apart,
> if I can.
> If the rear one's NLA, I might be able to use the manifold coolant outlet
> fitting from an L-4 if the threads are the same.
>
> All of which will be a moot point if I can't get the manifold nuts off.
>
> Thoughts/suggestions appreciated,
> Ron
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