>Andrew Murphy:
> OK. I took my alternator down and had it tested. It's fine. So I bought a
> repalcement plug and spliced it in. Car is now running, but the amp gauge is
> still high.
>
> Symptoms now are no turn signals, windshield wiper motor, and no back up
> lights. Headlamps work great on both high and low beams, horn works.
>
> Obviously I need to look for a common thread for those parts that are not
> working. I checked the fuses and they are all good to go. I am going to look
> at a wiring diagram to see if I can find the commonality, but any help would
> be greatfully appreciated.
If you don't have a multimeter of some sort you really need to get one, and
a 12 volt test light (One of the ice pick looking gizmos) is a good tool,
too. I have a couple of digital multimeters, both of which were under $30,
IIRC.
Use the test lamp, a DMM or an analog volt/ohm meter, and using a wiring
diagram check for voltage in a specific circuit starting at one end or the
other trace it to the other end. Follow the wiring diagram like a road map.
It's generally easiest to start from the battery or fuse block end. Go from
connector to connector or junction point and at some point you'll loose
voltage. You can use the ohmmeter side of the DMM, too, checking the circuit
for continuity, but to do that you'd need some long test leads. Using a
voltmeter you can move your ground lead as you move along the circuit. Just
be sure of your ground point.
If you don't have the HP book on Auto Electrical Systems, I highly recommend
it. It offers solid info on auto electrical basics and help in wiring cars
from scratch, too.
HTH,
Ron
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