The engine and trans have to be removed as a unit. Well, okay, some might
point out that it is possible to pull the engine without pulling the trans,
too, but what would be the point of that? That's harder than pulling them
both.
Check the clutch adjustment by removing the spring between the slave
cylinder and the clutch arm. There should be a small amount of freeplay
between the clutch arm and the rod. I usually set it so that there is just a
little bit of perceptible movement. I don't have an actual measurement that
I use. If there is no freeplay, then the clutch can't engage fully.
If you check it and there is freeplay but the clutch is still slipping, then
it sounds like it is time for a new clutch.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of joseph
> jackson
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 9:14 PM
> To: datsun team
> Subject: Clutch repair
>
>
> Probably elementary question----Restoring 67.5 SPL311 to drive-around
> status---engine almost ready,(rings,crank bearings,carbs,etc) runs pretty
> well....Clutch allows a bit of movement of the car forward and backward
> (transm works) but only on level..It slips on the slughtest grade. The
> adjusting nuts on the piston rod that position the clutch yoke
> look to be at
> their limit(almost smack against the piston rod boot). All of
> which is telling
> it's necessary to rebuild the clutch. The manuals I have
> (Clymers,Worldbooks,etc) don't seem to like to write much about
> clutches....
> To rebuild is it necessary to remove the engine ? or can it
> reasonably be done
> by working from the rear i.e. some disassembling of the transm support,
> transm,drive shaft, etc .? other suggestions ?
> Thanks for your help
> Joe--Syracuse NY
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