List,
I have never worked with a rope type packing for a rear main seal. I have
always used a lip seal. I installed the crankshaft into the block this
evening.
I did a trial assembly to check bearing fits and plastigage the mains to
verify clearances. Everything was right on, (.002 main clearances) and the
crank
rotated nicely. I then moved on to final installation of the crank. I took
one half of the rear main out of the can of oil it was soaking in and
persuaded, tapped and pushed it into it cavity in the block. I tapped it into
place
as the manual instructed and cut the ends flush. It was very hard to install.
It almost seemed to have too large of a cross section to fit into its groove.
It still was a bit higher than the bearing when installed. I layed the
crank into place and snugged the middle (thrust) bearing cap. The crank was
preloaded by the seal. I could turn the crank with a prybar but not by hand.
I
then snugged the remainder of the bearing caps except the rear. The crank was
tight! After using the prybar to rotate the crank a few revolutions it
loosened up a little and I installed the other half of the seal into the rear
cap and
installed the cap. The crank was again tight and needed a few revolutions to
loosen it up. After assembly it is still fairly tight. I have a few
flywheel bolts in and can turn the crank with an 18" prybar with about 10
pounds of
force. That equates to about 15 lbs rotational torque to move the flywheel. I
cannot budge the crank by hand. Does this sound right? I think there should
be some preload on the rear seal but I think with this much friction my seal
will burn up in no time! Does this sound normal or should I pull it apart and
start over with the seal?
Thanks in advance,
John Over
68 2L
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