Greg,
There's an SMC vacuum switch on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2511232419&category=633
Listing says he has more.
Mark
Specs from SMC's site:
SPECIFICATIONS
Model ZSE2
Operating pressure range -101kPa to 0
Maximum pressure 200kPa
Accuracy 13% F.S. (5 to 400C), 15% F.S. (0 to 600C)
Hysteresis 3% F.S. or less (fixed)
Power supply 12 to 24V DC (Ripple 110% or less)
Output -15: NPN open collector 30V 80mA, -55: PNP open collector 80mA
Indicator light ON: when output is ON (Red)
Current consumption 17mA or less at 24V DC
Operating temperature range 0 to 600C (no condensation)
Port size 01: R(PT) 1/8, M5 X 0.8 T1: NPTF 1/8, M5 X 0.8
Lead wire Grommet Grommet oil-resistant vinyl cabtire code 3 wires
x3.4, 0.2mm2
Plug connector Heat resistant vinyl electrical wire x1.55, 0.31mm2
* In case of vacuum use, there is no influence on the switch if 0.5MPa
of pressure is supplied instantly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vicki Burrows" <gregnvicki@earthlink.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 12:14 AM
Subject: re: Octane boost
> Octane boost is a waste of money. It only improves the octane rating a
> few
> "points"... but those points are not from 89 octane to 93 octane... it's
> 89
> octane to 89.3 octane. You can formulate your own octane boost, and
> while it is
> less than what you would pay, it is still expensive and difficult to
> transport.
> As I contemplate my 11.7 to 1 compression, I have given serious
> consideration to
> water injection again. Hot topic on turbo-charged cars, and a proven
> "octane"
> enhancer. The goal of octane is to keep the fuel from pre igniting.
> The proper
> amount of water (or water with methanol or alcohol) will do the same and
> far
> cheaper. However, getting the "right" amount takes some effort, a
> problem that I
> am working on, and that others (Edelbrock, Spearco, Aquamist) have done,
> but
> somewhat expensively and with varying degrees of success (so I hear). I
> am
> currently looking for a vacuum actuated switch that will switch on the
> pump when
> the engine is under load (anyone have any suggestions? I would like to
> mount the
> switch or take signal off of the intake manifold, so it will switch on
> when
> vacuum decreases instead of increases, as I do not have a vacuum port on
> the SK
> carbs, or on the Mikunis either). Other improvements to reduce
> pre-ignition
> revolve around getting a cooler air/fuel mix into the engine, thus the
> increased
> use of cold air boxes and coated headers to reduce underhood temps. You
> can also
> back off your timing a bit. If I am able to develop a system that works
> well and
> is inexpensive, I will post it, assuming it gets made at all... I have
> yet to run
> the engine and it is possible that the other mods done will keep it from
> pinging
> even at that compression... but I doubt it.
> Oh, by the way, I looked closer and found that I DO have a pilot bushing
> in the
> crank... a flashlight is a wonderful thing, huh? Thanks again!
> Greg Burrows
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