Ken,
I haven't driven any of the modern pocket rockets to compare them, but the 2000
in 135 HP form is very responsive. There have been a few offered for sale in
the
last couple of months that have suggested about 230 HP at the rear wheels.
About
nine grand. Maybe the car is still available and the owner will contact you.
He
says it is almost uncontrollable under very hard acceleration.
Some of the other owners have commented that if driving very hard they can pull
scratch into 4th gear at 88 mph. Not bad for a 30 some year old car and not
something I would do to mine.
Most of the 135 to 150 HP comes from the cam change that goes with the Solex
carbs. A little power, and a lot of great sound comes from the Solexes. The
135
comes to life at 3500 RPM, I don't have enough experience with Solex setups to
know where the cam is, but it is higher than that. Once a 135 HP car reaches
3500 RPM a built 57 Chevy can't catch it, which is a real surprise for the Chevy
driver. At least they never caught me, and I have a thing about 57 Chevy's.
They just don't seem to exist today...... but I will keep looking.
Tom
69 2000
Portland
Ken Mack wrote:
> Hmmmmm...
>
> I would have to say... I don't know what I want to do with the engine
> yet. Since I don't own the car, and have never driven one, I have no
> opinion to base my needs on. It is a small, light car that comes stock
> with 150Hp (I think)... and that is more than 75% of the modern 4 cyl.
> compacts on the market. Plus it has an FR setup, which you can hardly
> find on ANY new car now a days. So I would think... this roadster is
> very quick, nimble, and fun to toss around (aside from those skinny
> stock tires).
>
> In an N/A form, I could see 200HP being very adequate for the car,
> concentrating on top end power, raising the rev levels a bit, and then
> blowing the rest of my money on a really good suspension setup (This car
> will definitely be seen at Thunder Hill). Oh, then of course... $$$ for
> making the car PERTY!
>
> I'd love to see it with an SR20DET (and may actually try someday)... but
> even the N/A SR engine requires you to hack the frame to allow room for
> the crank pulley and transmission bell. Unfortunately I do not have
> access to welding or cutting devices to allow me to engine swap like
> this, so I'd like to see what I can get out of a U20... when I get it
> that is.
>
> How are the flow characteristics of the head? Would the car benefit
> from a nice Port and Polish job? Matched valves? I've never heard of a
> LOBELESS cam before. Are there aftermarket cams available? What about
> an adjustable timing gear(would that even work on this)? Shaved head(but
> not too much)? What about the cylinder walls? Is there enough room for
> over boring? And what about an L20 engine... how do those slide in?
> I've read somewhere that you can put an FJ20 into a Roadster? Is that
> hard? Can you still get those from Canada?
>
> Just trying to ask some general questions so I can get answers and
> opinions from as many people as possible.
>
> Thanks again;
> Ken
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|