Marc, on exhaust manifolds, I use a copper nut which has a ring
included on it.
The ring is smaller in diam. than the thread on the stud (only by a
bees dick) and performs the same function as the Nyloc on a Nyloc nut
but without the obvious temperature problem.
They are intended for turbo use, so should be more than adequate for a
N/A engine.
Alternatively, a good quality stainless steel spring washer will still
do the job I feel.
Regards,
Graeme Suckling
1965 SP310 - under construction DSOA Member # 112
1971 P510 4 door - daily driver, original owner, highly modified.
1972 P510 2 door - in storage.
1973 HS30/240Z - re-building to 2003 specs.
Adelaide, South Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of snyler
Sent: Sunday, 9 February 2003 3:31 AM
To: Pat Mahoney; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: washer info
At 7:36 PM -0800 2/6/03, Pat Mahoney wrote:
>Hi list, Most engineering associations ie: USS, SAE, ASTM and ISO no
longer
>recognize the spring type lock washer as an effective locking device.
They
>suggest using a self-locking nut of the corect grade or a substance
such as
>LocTite to achieve a secure lock. It doesnt hurt to use a spring
type lock
>washer, but this does not guarantee a secure lock. A flat washer's
main use
>is to spread the clamp load from a cap screw to insure an even
clamping and
>reduce distortion. Probably more info than you care to know. Pat
Mahoney
>'69 2000 and bolt packs for roadsters
Will a self locking nut or loctite stand up to the heat of an exhaust
manifold?
-Marc
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