Marc,
My gray ghost did the same thing. It was rusty fuel lines and rusty tank.
I put a cheap ($1-$2) fuel filter just out of the hard line from the tank
and replaced it many times. None of the filters I replaced looked clogged
but I got an immediate improvement in drivability with each replacement. It
was fuel pressure as much as it was crud in the mechanism.
If you want to test for crud in the system get a one gallon pickle jar full
of gasoline and enough fuel line to run to the trunk. Have someone sit on
the parcel tray and hold the pickle jar high over his(her) head so the
gasoline will gravity feed to the carbs, stick the fuel line in the jar,
suck on the carb side of the fuel line to start the siphon process, then
connect the line to the carbs and start the car. Your helper may have to
stand up in the car if the gravity flow needs more height above the engine.
Did I mention that you need to put a lid on the jar and run the hose through
a hole in the lid? Safety first is my motto. If the car runs better you
know there is crud in the system.
Not many people can adjust Skinner Union Carbs any more. Hrere's the
procedure I use.
1. Warm up the engine if at all possible. Make sure there is oil in the
dampers. (common fault)
2. Disconnect the linkage that connects the carbs to each other.
3. Adjust the back carb first.
a) Adjust the fuel rich-lean screw on the bottom of the carb.
b) Adjust the idle air on the side of the carb. I listen with a vacuum
hose from the carb inlet to my ear for the correct sound of idle air.
4. Adjust the front carb next. Make the idle air sounds match.
5. Reconnect the linkage.
6. If the engine is now at a too high or too low idle rpm, repeat steps 2 -
5 in order.
The books have many more steps and lots of advice.
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|