For all:
Some time ago, some might recall me lamenting about my
burned out wiper motor, and how expensive NOS ones are.
Since I have a perfectly good 510 Station Wagon parts
car in the driveway, I decided to adapt the wagon's motor,
if possible.
Some observations: The roadster motor is very well made,
and could, I think, be rebuilt at some fairly high cost by a
competent motor rewind shop. It is a old design, with
a wire wound rotor and stator. My stator was burned up,
which is why my wipers suddenly quit. The 510 motor is
a newer permanant magnet design, and as such should draw less
power. It is much smaller and weighs a lot less, but
drives the same kind of gearbox, and has the same 3 bolt
mounting feet, so it bolts right up to the roadster
mounting plate. I did not take it apart to check its guts,
because it is of a new enough design that its probably
going to spring apart and be very very hard to re-assemble.
The 510 motor has the same square plug as the roadster,
but the pins and wires go to different places, so if
possible, grab both sides of the plug from your organ
donor 510.
How To: You need to swap the gear arm, I'm talking about
the short arm that drives the wipers. Use a cutoff tool
or die grinder and grind the rivit that holds the arm
on the roadster gearbox. Tap it a few times and it will
come off, its a press fit with a star pattern. The
510 motor arm unbolts, and is an oblong pattern. Use
a rat-tail file to carfully make the star into an oblong.
This has to be a good fit, so take your time. Bolt the
roadster arm with its carefully crafted oblong hole
onto the 510 motor gearbox, use washers
if necessary to give a good shoulder for a nut and
lockwasher.
I could not figure out the wires to match the roadster
harness to the 510 motor. If someone else can do this,
please inform the list, I didnt want to hook up wrong and
burn up the harness or my organ donor motor. So...I ran
the motor from a separate 20 amp ckt with a bayanet fuse
holder that very convienently mounts in the unused hole
on the passager side, for the Japanese version hood pull.
The 510 motor plug wires I used are:
solid blue= + 12 volt
blue with white tracer= fast winding
blue with red tracer= slow winding
Yes, the parking ckt is disabled in this application,
you just have to time when you flip the switch....
The stock toggle switch (I have an early 67) lugs on
the back are as follows:
away from the writing that says "type S-3 switch",
off is farthest away. Top is the fast lug, next down
is the slow lug, next is the ground lug, the bottom
lug is not used in this application.
I carefully zip tied the original harness plug and
switch wires out of the way, so if in the future some
guy wants to tell a "you wont believe what the P.O. did"
story and make the car right, he can do so. My car,
with its stroker non-numbers matching engine, and
extensive fiberglass "enhancements" to the body,
is never going to be a show car, but it sure is
a great driver, and now I can drive in the rain,
if I happen to get caught out in it. So, this
repair method fit my situation quite well.
The wipers work great, and are much more powerful
than before. Of course, you can amuse your children
if you like, because they now work without the ignition
and you can stop the blades anywhere you like.
This post in no way is ment to displease any of
our suppliers, if I could afford a NOS motor,
I would have bought one from our suppliers, and
the few remaining motors are worth price charged.
My situation called for a creative answer, and
I wrote the post to help others in a similar fix.
Best Regards,
Jim
Chesapeake Va
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