Sounds like you're having a lot of fun, Allen. ;-)
The last Nissan thermostat I bought would stick open and the car took forever to
warm up properly. I finally bought a Stant 180-degree thermostat for an L-series
at the local Shuck's and that cured it. I should mention that's the first time
I've had a problem with a Nissan thermostat, though.
Getting the temp sender out of the housing can be a real chore when things are
corroded together. WD-40 is pretty much useless. Some people swear by Kroil
penetrating oil, but it can be hard to find. I've even heard of marinating in
Coke/Pepsi. Heating the area with a torch might help. The main thing to remember
is that it is easier to get a new sending unit than a new housing.
I use two kinds of gasket sealant. Which one I use depends on the surfaces. If
they are both accurately machined surfaces like tensioner-to-block or head
gasket, I use Copper Coat. If it is anything else, I use Hylomar, which is
similar to silicone sealant. I'm very careful to use only a very thin coat. I
use a piece of cardboard (like a piece of a spark plug box) as a squeegee and
really spread it around carefully.
On the manifolds, I hang the exhaust manifold on first, without putting any
pressure on it. Then I hang the intake manifold and put two nuts on a couple of
the top studs. I snug them down just enough to loosely hold the manifold in
place. Next I start the underneath nuts, which are hard to get at and usually
involve jockeying the exhaust manifold around to get clearance (I've got a tube
header). Then I start the upper nuts just to get them in place. I snug down the
lower nuts first to get a good seal on the lower part of the intake manifold
where the water passages are. Then I snug down the upper nuts. Last I do a final
round of tightening to make sure everything is even.
BTW, I like to mount the carbs on the manifold off the car so I can visually
check the balance to get it close, but this is a lot easier to do if the engine
is out of the car, especially with the Solexes.
Static timing the engine involves setting the crank to 20 degrees BTDC, then
twisting the distributor until the points spark. Yes, 20 is the last of the
small marks.
Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
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