Keith's advice is all good. A couple of things I might add though. First,
you need to make sure that the nozzles move when you turn the mixture nuts.
I've seen nozzles frozen in place from varnish. You can turn the screw out
to till it hits the nozzle - which wont move and may feel like a positive
stop - or all the way up to full lean but the nozzle won't follow it. Make
sure they move smoothly and easily. Also make sure the choke mechanism
isn't fowled up somehow. Next, pay careful attention to the high speed sync
that Keith mentioned. This is the screw on the linkage center link at the
point where the rear carb's throttle lever inserts into the center link.
Some folks make the mistake of thinking this should be tightened. It should
be all the way loose when setting the idle and only adjusted when the car is
running at 2-3000 rpm. Don't confuse this adjustment with the long service
screw that can be used to raise the idle speed by screwing it in against the
manifold. When I set my high speed synchronization, I use the throttle lock
on the dash instead of the service screw.
For the float level, I make a mark on the side of the float bowl 23mm below
the top of the bowl - not the from the top of the cover. Then I attach
clear line to the float bowl and crank the car until the level in the line
is constant and check the height visually.
Brian '69 2000
Tampa, FL
http://web.tampabay.rr.com/oilleak/
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