Many new engines are assembled this way.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick J. Horne" <horne@cs.utexas.edu>
To: "Gary McCormick" <svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
Cc: "Tim Waltz" <printner@worldnet.att.net>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: anti-seize
> If I decide to use anti-seize on a bolt, I go through a few extra steps
> before I put the anti-seize on the bolt. First, I torque the bolt down
> dry, and note the relative position of the bolt head. Then I remove the
> bolt, put the anti-seize on it, then tighten it back down until the bolt
> head is in the same position that it was before applying the anti-seize.
>
> My old Volvo 260 series manual was strange and used a pointer on the
> torque wrench, as well as a protractor to tighten a lot of its engine
> bolts. First you torqued the bolts to a minimal torque, say, 10 Ft/Lbs, (I
> don't remember what the manual called for, so the 10 Ft/Lbs is for theory
> only). Next set the pointer to zero on the protractor, then turned the
> bolt the given number of degrees. Sounded strange, but it did the job. The
> Volvo 260 was a poor engine to begin with, I'm glad I replaced it with a
> 240 engine!
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> - Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
>
> Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor/Future planner, CS Dept,
> University of Texas, 1 University Station C0500,Austin, Tx. 78712-1188 USA
> voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
>
> On Tue, 10 Sep 2002, Gary McCormick wrote:
>
> > A good all-around anti-sieze is the MIL-PRF-83483 material. This stuff
is just
> > molybdenum disulfide in petrolatum (vaseline, essentially), but for non
high-temperature
> > applications (don't use it in exhaust manifold studs, for example) it
works great. It is
> > available at just about any auto parts place. The thing to watch out for
when using
> > anti-sieze on a threaded fastener is the increased axial load on the
lubricated fastener
> > which will result from the same torque. With less of the torque input
taken up in
> > friction, the same torque will yield a higher tensile load - i.e., the
bolt will be
> > tighter. This is VERY important if the threads are in a softer material
such as aluminum -
> > and don't ask me how I know this.... ;^).
> >
> > Gary McCormick
> > San Jose, CA
> >
> > Tim Waltz wrote:
> >
> > > What do you recommend for anti-seize?? I've read that different
people use
> > > it on bolts, etc, but any certain kind for different applications?
> > >
> > > My immediate need is for a trailer hitch ball. The last one I put on
froze
> > > to itself (no rust). The only familiarity I have with anti-seize is
Ti-prep
> > > for bolts going into titanium bike frames.
> > >
> > > Tim
> > >
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