John,
I use a bolt to pull the caps out, using the threaded holes in the caps. For
the metric engines, I use a 10 mm dia X 75 mm long bolt. Get 8 or so flat
washers too. I got a piece of angle iron 1.5" X 1.5", about 16" long (or long
enough to span across the width of the engine block). Drill a hole mid span in
one of the legs of the angle iron just big enough in diameter for the bolt to
go through. Place the angle across the block, bolstered with some wooden
blocks and run the bolt through hole in the angle. Turn the bolt to jack the
cap out, using various thicknesses of wood on each side of the engine block and
various numbers of washers between the bolt head and angle iron. Use more wood
and washers later to raise the angle iron higher as the cap starts pulling
out. It requires removing the bolt a few times to get a new position on the
cap before it comes all the way out. Be careful to not bottom the bolt too
hard in the cap because it's a blind hole.
Gary Boone
John Hogan wrote:
> I'm in the process (near the end, yeah!) of disassembling my U20 engine and
> have run into a little snag trying to interpret the "manual". The "manual"
> states:
>
> 56. Remove the bolts securing the main bearing caps to the cylinder block.
>
> 57. Using a suitable puller, remove the center and rear main bearing caps.
> Remove all other bearing caps taking note of their location and
> orientation. Mark them with metal stamps if necessary to PERMANENTLY
> identify them.
>
> What type of puller is "suitable"? I can't imagine my gear puller doing
> any good. Any help would be appreciated...
>
> John
>
> John Hogan
> 1967.5 2000 SRL31100141 "Solex"
> www.madgrizzle.com
> www.myformulas.com
>
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