Welcome to the list Brian,
First of all, where are you located? This gives one and all the opportunity
to lend a hand, or look something over if you are doing something critical
(like brakes!).
On the subject of brakes, it is pretty hard to tell from 'garage stored'
what condition things are in and which new parts will be required, but a
thorough dismantle, cleaning of everything, and inspection is definitely in
order. Consider a digital camera, as many have found it is invaluable
during the rebuild process. it might help with some of the 'does this look
too bad to use' questions that folks on the list can help you with as well.
Be careful of going to your local auto parts store, as often they'll have 69
Datsun as only one listing and you'll get 510 parts, which are often not
correct. The roadster vendors will steer you right.
You'll definitely want new brake shoes, (partly because you'll probably soak
them with penetrating fluid getting all the parts removed) and the
likelihood that the master cylinder (m/c) is still good is pretty slim. Our
vendors have replacements for these (vendor lists on the various clubsites),
I would recommend replacing rather than trying a rebuild. In regards to
brake lines, buy a flare nut wrench (an open end wrench that grips the brake
line fittings on more than two sides) and a lot of penetrating fluid. You
might want to add a little heat to the fitting, sometimes this helps break
things loose. Inspect the brake lines for corrosion on the outside. If
the pits cannot be removed without some simple sanding (deep pits), consider
new ones. Some have gone to stainless in this case, depends on how much you
are putting into it.
If you find any lines that are still covered with plastic insulation,
(notably the one on the front calipers connecting the top to bottom) these
are very suspect. Keep (and label) the old brake lines, first to measure
the length for replacement, and second because when you are ready to
re-install your m/c you will cut two of the brake lines, bend them into a
'C', so that the pumped fluid goes right back into the top of the reservoir.
this will blow thru all the existing air while on the workbench.
Caliper pistons? you could dismantle them, but it takes a trained eye to
know how much corrosion is too much, and they are easy to remove/replace, so
try getting the rest of the system working, then see if they work right
while the car is still up on blocks, then a real slow,careful test drive
after that.
Remember, if you clean everything real well in the area, you'll be able to
tell if/where any leaks occur.
Fergus O'Farrell, 69 2000, Huntington Beach,CA
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|