I don't believe you're running any current through the ammeter if you leave
it disconnected and have the alternator wired directly to the battery. The
draw comes from the battery directly to the alternator. The ammeter will
only show the demand that is placed on the system but not the load being
replenished. My car with the alternator wired directly to the battery
reads zero to negative on the ammeter, never positive. The voltmeter I
installed shows the voltage as between 13-14 under normal driving conditions.
If you connected your higher output alternator directly to the ammeter then
you'd have trouble.
At 09:20 AM 8/13/2002 -0500, Patrick J. Horne wrote:
>Ian,
>
>Since you are using a 10Ga. wire between the alternator and the battery
>you should be able to connect the white wire to the alternator (in
>addition to the wiring that is already there) and you will get a reading
>on the ammeter, just lower than what you had with the stock
>alternator/wiring configuration. A volt meter would work also, but it
>would take more modification to get it connected and mounted. If you
>decide to not connect up the white wire I would jump out the ammeter
>because you will be running more current through it than it is designed to
>handle when you turn on all your accessories (when the ammeter now pegs).
>If the ammeter blows you will be stuck with no power on the car, including
>ignition, headlights, cooling fan.
>
>Peace,
>Pat
>
>- Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
>
>Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor, Future planner, CS Dept,
>University of Texas, 1 Texas Longhorns, #C0500,Austin, Tx. 78712 USA
>voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
>
>On Tue, 13 Aug 2002, ian miller wrote:
>
> > Thanks to everyone who responded to my last question. Here is what I
> > concluded:
> > Ammeter is not showing the actual state of the caharging system
> since i
> > no longer use the white wire. I need to install a voltmeter instead. I
> > probably have a ground proble form the engine to the frame. The alternator
> > is connected tot he battery with a 10 GA wire and 30 amp fuse. My battery
> > is connected to the motor with a braided strap but I don't believe
> there are
> > any motor to frame connections. If this doesn't fix it then it must be
> > those darn aliens again.
> >
> > My next proble is the humm/wine it makes above 40 MPH in 3rd or 4th gear.
> > It has always done this, but I never planned on taking it on a 5 hour trip
> > to the Glen before so it didn't worry me. The humm (very loud) is only
> > present when the clutch is released in 3rd or 4th gear. If I depress the
> > clutch it goes away. I had the transmission professionaly rebuilt, but the
> > man doing the work died of a heart attack halfway through and his son
> > finishes it.
> >
> > Originally my guess was the rear differential, but the sound is infront of
> > that and the diff would make the noise regardless of the clutch being
> > disengaged. So I'm stumped!
> >
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Ian Miller
> > 66 1600 (stroked)
> >
> >
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Adam Bradley
'70 Datsun 1600 Roadster SPL311-28181
'67 Datsun RL411 SSS sedan RL411-11321
'66 Datsun PL411 sedan PL411-022447
http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
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