For all:
For those who are following my re-assembly after the blown
head gasket, and additonal work I decided to do rebuilding
the 5 spd, new clutch, water pump, etc, here are a few notes.
For a 1600 5 spd conversion, its good to put the tranny mount
on the tranny, and not install it on the X member. Too hard
to try to get the tailshaft over the mount. Get a 5/16
24 pitch tap and clean out the 8 captured nuts in the
frame for this mount, and things will go easier.
If you bought extra long tranny bolts to use to hang the
engine on an engine stand, another great use of these bolts,
if you have a bad back (like me) is to slowly get the tranny close
to lined up to the input shaft and those dowls and tranny
bolt holes, with blocks of wood,
then you can use the extra long bolts (put two
in on top) and carefully wiggle around to get them started without
cross threading, and they will draw the tranny in slick as can be,
close enough to take them out and then put in the 4
normal length bolts.
If you live on the East Coast, where there are Taylor
Do It Centers, they have an outstanding hardware selection.
I was able to get hardened metric bolts (the 2 8mm and one
10mm) with washers and lock washers for my new water pump,
and just giant amounts of other fasteners (I hate putting things
together with damaged or rusty fasteners). The best and
most cool part is you can buy one of anything, and just
write the price on a piece of paper. I even found the correct
Oil pan drain plug gasket, and also neoprene washers that will work
great under the strange chrome washers, the ones that go
under the acorn nuts that hold the valve cover on.
The only thing I could not fine was some 6mm small bolts to
replace the emissions locking thumbwheels next to the
mixture nuts on the carbs (I have early 240Z carbs, but
68 and newer roadsters have the same things I think).
Plenty of 6mm bolts, but they are all 1.0 pitch, and the
carbs must be 1.25 or something wierd. Im just going to
cut the thumbwheels off with a hack saw and lock the
stub down with the existing nut and hack saw a small screwdriver
slot in the stub to tighten the two together.
I got some clear plastic tubing also. I am planning on bench
testing float level with a small gravity fed gas supply
with the carbs level on a fixture on the workbench.
I think as long as they are off the car, this will be a
much easier way to get it right than fooling around with
them on the car. My rear carb was spitting occasional
drops of gas out the vent, so I know all is not well with
them.
Yes, of course I will have a fire extinguisher close at hand,
always do.
Possible Flounder fishing next few days, but I will have this
car on the road by the middle of this coming week
New job does not start until 03 June!
Well, its 0240, guess its time to hit the rack...
Best Regards,
Jim
Chesapeake VaGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
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