For all:
I am getting ready to put my stroker back together. For folks
who have followed this thread I decided not to attempt to fix
the rear main oil seal leak after carefully looking over the care
that apparently was put into balancing the rotating assembly.
Its seen the tach buried at several autocrosses, I think
I will leave well enough alone.
Some other unusual features of this engine besides the porting
and giant valves, it has double valve springs. Also, does
the stock 1600 oil pan have baffles in it. Just wondering,
mine does. Holds about 5.5 quarts. Looks like the stock
steel pan though.
Paul, of OROC, stopped by and visited today on
his way to other destinations, and agreed it was
a most unusually high performance version of a
stroker 1600.
In any event, the torque values that concern me, after
comparing "Toms Tech Tips", a reprint of an old
Chiltons manual, and the original shop manual
(the parts of it I can still read) are as follows:
Head bolts: Tom says 50, Chiltons says 40, original
manual says 45 to 50. This is a no
brainer, with the high compression I will
carefully take it to 50, unless otherwise advised.
Rocker shaft:No body says anything about these 4 studs except the
original, which says 30-35, which seems way too
much for those steel studs screwed into that little
bit of aluminum. I plan on using the 3 finger on
6 inch wrench technique. Anotherwords, just
good and snug.
Flywheel to Crank: Chiltons says 69-76ft lbs, Tom says 35 Ft lbs.
These things are allen head cap screws and were
harder than hell to get out. They were also put
in with some kind of loctite. I dont know what to
do about this, but am planning on as tight as I
dare, or around 50lbs, and using red loctite.
Thanks in advance to all you engine builders out there.
Best Regards,
Jim
Chesapeake, Va
67 pushrod 2L 5spd
72 510 sportwagonGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
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