Daniel,
Firstly I ran my ideas, past an automotive engineer, (since in Australia
the modified cars needs to be passed by an engineer, for it to be able to
be registered), for his feedback, and he had no problems with the way it
was done......
The notch in the front crossmember, follows the shape of the original
brace, which you can see from the photos. Original metal thickness was 2-3
mm, so we used 5 mm flat bar stock in our brace.
We kept the original support brace in place, after straightening it. It
gets bent, when people place their jacks under the cross member.
Then we seam welded it with a MIG, since original was spot welded. After
that we welded our brace right next to it. The ends were fabricated out of
another piece of steel, and welded from both sides.
On the "X", the top notch is for the gearbox mount (insulator). You want
your gearbox to sit as low as possible, as to clear the bellhousing to the
firewall, and most important, to keep your tailshaft uni's as straight as
possible.
The notch on the RHS (viewing from back), is for the speed sensor. If you
want to go with the "mechanical" gear drive, you probably wouldn't need to
notch as much. I intend on running VDO electronic speedo, so I will keep
the electronic sensor. This also helps the ECU to keep the revs up, when on
the over run, or braking suddenly.
Both "X" notches were boxed in using 5 mm flat bar and angle stock.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Sel
Daniel Neuman
<dneuman@quark To: Sel_Aganovic@hettich.com.au
.sfsu.edu> cc:
datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SR20-DET Conversion
07/05/02 03:36
Hello,
Wow there sure is a whole lot of notching going on. Could you
explain what each notch is for and how you determined it was safe to do it
and how you reinforced it?
Thanks,
Daniel 69 2000 (that dreams of being a SR20DET
someday)
Oakland CA
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