OK,
After another 12 hour day getting my 68-2000 back together (I thought head
gaskets were only an 8 hour job), I have what I hope is a tuning question.
The new head gasket (kopper koated) went on nicely, everything squeaky
clean... I even got to manufacture two head-bolt washers, the ones with the
funny shape since I had two that were cracked. What a good workout hand
filing can be!
I turn the key and vrrooooom! She starts right up (after I of course
cranked her over a while without the coil wire so the oil could circulate).
HOWEVER! The engine has no power, and backfires (out the intake manifold
little hole and carbs, NOT the exhaust).
Since I shimmed my upper tensioner, I figured the timing might need
adjusting. It was off about 7 degrees so I reset it to 17 deg. I have a
pre-smog distributor. It ran better, but still no power and the annoying
backfiring out the carbs/intake manifold.
Soooooooo... There was a 1% chance that my timing chain slipped one tooth
on the lower gear, even though I was careful not to let this happen. When I
was tightening the cam sprocket, I heard a little noise that was either the
lower tensioner or the chain slipping a notch. So I put the crank pulley on
TDC and checked my distributor rotor and my cam lobes. All looks just as it
should. #1 cam lobes at 10 and 2, hole in the cam sprocket pointing at
12noon, and #4 cam lobes at roughly 4 and 8. Distributor rotor right at #1.
Driver's side of the timing chain is tight, tensioner side is too since
I've shimmed it.
One thing I did not do was re-adjust my carbs. I figured they were close
enough and hadn't touched them...
QUESTION: Can poor carb adjustment alone account for the "no power" and
backfiring I'm experiencing? My plan is to do the carb tuning routine in
the morning and cross my fingers.
Any ideas? Advice?
Thanks in advance,
Ken Pearce 68-2000
Bellingham, WA
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