Before you replace your newly plated line, try this. Get a piece of small
dia steel cable. Bicycle brake cable will due. Chuck it in a variable
speed drill and SLOWLY try to work it through the line. (Take the line out
of the car.) Just like snaking a drain. Once it is through, clamp one end of
the cable securely, hold on to the other end and run the brake line back and
forth to scrub out as much as possible. Fill the line with carb cleaner and
let is soak for a good while. Then blow it out thoroughly with compressed
air. No guarantees but it's worth a try.
Best regards,
Fred Schroeder
'70 2000
SRL311-13359
TDROC
Home page http://home.texoma.net/~sitsinwest/
----- Original Message -----
From: <Geegc@aol.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 11:30 PM
Subject: brake line Q -- stupid owner's tricks. number 23
> When I had the engine out I figured I would have the brake lines nickel
> plated, after all they were out of the car, and there is no such thing as
too
> shin.
>
> So I got them back from the plater and thought I had checked to see if
they
> were clear, put them in and put the engine back in. Then we tried to
bleed
> the brakes and nothing happened.
>
> Looked for a reason and found the worst, the brake line from the master
> cylinder to the junction that takes a dozen turns along the fire wall was
> clogged and has to be replaced.
>
> It is a 42 inch line, and I can get a straight line from the parts store,
but
> I am wondering if anyone has any advice about bending it and getting it
back
> in place with the engine and all the hoses already in the car already.
Are
> there stainless steel braided hoses available that would not have to be
bent?
>
>
> So the helpful hint is, check to see if your hydraulic lines are clear
before
> you put them back in the car.
>
> Gary C
> 1966 1600
> 1968 2000
>
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