Fergus,
Sounds like you are doing everything right, a few things you might try:
1) pump slowly and gently, otherwise you can create very small air bubbles
that are difficult to remove.
2) when you're bleeding the front brakes, smack the caliper cylinders with
*plastic* hammer or a 2x4. These big cylinders and those loopy lines tend to
trap bubbles. Also because of the large cylinder volume you need to move a
lot of fluid through them to get all the air out. Usually takes me about a
quart of fluid to get things clear.
3) you said you adjusted the rears tight, but still have a lot of parking
brake travel. Since you have driven the car, readjust the rears, the brakes
seat in (re-align) after first use and may need to be re-adjusted. If you
still have a lot of parking brake travel, you need to adjust the cable
length under the right rear of the car.
One last thing, this won't cause the pedal travel problem you are dealing
with, but important just the same -- since you installed a new master
cylinder, check the pedal free play. Free play should be 5/16" to 7/16", and
is adjusted with shims. Too much free play limits the total travel and hurts
brake performance, too little free play can prevent the brakes from
releasing, causing excessive wear and potentially a brake fire. Good luck.
Todd Osborn
San Jose, CA
2x '68 2L
----- Original Message -----
From: "O'Farrell, Fergus" <Ofarrell.Fergus@hitco.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 9:01 AM
Subject: brakes frustration
> Okay, done 'the drill', now soliciting suggestions.
> Background: 69 2000. Brakes were squishy, leaked fluid onto my shoes
while
> driving. Bought a rebuild kit, found that PO (or someone) had left one
> entire piston out of previous rebuild. Bought a new mast cyl (thanks
Stan)
> and installed and bench bled. At same time, installed Speedbleeders.
Since
> lots of air after rebuild, had to switch back to regular bleeders to flush
> large quantity of air, then switch back. (switching not a big deal, and
> definitely worth it) yah, handbrake handle does have a long stroke, but
> rears are adjusted tight. I think I'm doing the bleed drill correct.
> Adjust rear close as possible.
> bleed in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF (longest lines to shortest lines.
yes,
> m/c is on left, but line junction is on right, so right lines are shorter
> than lefts)
> Current situation: Brakes stop ok, but still 3-4 inches of travel. No
> matter how much I bleed, it doesn't improve. I am familiar from
> pre-roadster days of bleeding and having it better for a few days, then
get
> gradually worse, but I'm not even getting that. Yes, I can sit in the
driver
> seat and watch the m/c move when I press, but it's not that much (~1/4"
rise
> of end of cyl at full strength pump).
> Most probably calipers gone sour with time?
> Still scratching my head, Fergus O, HB, CA
>
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