Same story here, I rebuilt my U20 and mounted the starter and header when
the engine was still on the stand. Installed it in the car and less than a
month later the starter fails, suprise, no way to pull the starter (yes the
short one) without pulling the header. Turns out if the two center header
pipes run straight down from the exhaust ports they will block the starter
(probably cook it too). My header now has a S-curve welded into it to move
the header pipes forward about 1.5", plus I wrapped it to keep thing cool.
Todd Osborn
San Jose, CA
2x '68 2L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roadster" <roadster@texoma.net>
To: "Victor Laury" <vlaury@earthlink.net>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Late Model Starter Removal
> I'll have to disagree somewhat. I just pulled the starter from my '70 2K
a
> few months back. (Manifold and short starter.) I had to twist, yank,
pull,
> cuss, and pry on it to get out. My '69 2K had a header and short starter.
> It wouldn't come out any way, shape, or form. I had to pull the header.
> Unfortunatly I didn't know about the gusset removal trick at that time.
Not
> that it helped much. I forgot to do it the last time around on my '70!
> Stupidity ranks supreme!
>
> Here's a thought. Could the original body mount pads have compressed over
> the years? It is only a fraction of an inch that keeps it from comming
out
> easily.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Fred Schroeder
> Denison, TX
> SRL311-13359
> TDROC
> Reg e-mail sitsinwest@texoma.net
> Home page http://home.texoma.net/~sitsinwest
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Victor Laury" <vlaury@earthlink.net>
> To: "Mark Clary" <mclary8@home.com>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 12:55 PM
> Subject: Late Model Starter Removal
>
>
> > >Is there an easy way to remove the starter from 69 2L?
> >
> > Mary,
> >
> > I have read the other replies to you from Fred and Steve and would add
my
> > views.
> >
> > I have had no more troubles with headers or stock manifold. The headers
> > become a problem only if there is a long style starter used. Since the
> long
> > style was used in the 1600 models I don't think you will have that
> problem.
> >
> > The "Gusset removal" is only needed in the early roadsters. Your 1969
will
> > not need any modification to remove your starter.
> >
> > You should remove the driver side front wheel to give you an open view
of
> > the starter. Disconnect the negative battery post before you start work
or
> > you might weld a tool or worse, weld a piece of flesh! Ouch! working
from
> > the wheel well, disconnect the terminals on the starter. Remove the
heavy
> > ground wire running from the bottom starter mounting bolt to the frame.
If
> > this wire is not there, that is the most likely reason your starter
burned
> > out!
> >
> > The top mounting bolt is the hard nut here! You might be able to get at
it
> > with a 14 mm socket and extensions from the front, around the back of
the
> > manifold. If you can your in luck. If not, The back carb will be in the
> way
> > of getting at it from the top. The easiest way to get the back carb off
is
> > to take the front one off first.
> >
> > Once the starter is free, turn it so the nose is pointing out the wheel
> > well. This is easier said than done, so take your time. You may have to
> turn
> > the starter many times before finding that perfect configuration where
the
> > starter will pass between the frame and the body, out the wheel well,
but,
> > soon you'll have the offending motor in hand.
> >
> > Your local Auto electric shop will be able to rebuild that puppy for 40
~
> 60
> > dollars. I keep a spare, ready to go in my garage. Heat is the other
> reason
> > we have so many starter troubles. I installed a heat shield wrap, that I
> > bought from a speed shop, but it did not last very long. Another good
Idea
> > is the "Tilton Super Starter" type gear reduction motor or Vendors sell.
> > These motors are smaller so they are farther away from the exhaust heat.
> >
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>
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