James M Koken wrote:
> LIst,
> Does anyone happen to have the minimum rotor thickness for the roadster front
> brakes? Most of my shops don't list it. Thanks and Seasons Greeting to All!
> Mike Koken
> Colorado Springs CO
Mike,
I took this off List Quest archives.
One of those FAQ's from T Walter.
Are you just trying to get the rotor/hub assembly off the car?
i.e. so you can repack the wheel bearings)? They do "stick"
and need a firm pull! The grease makes a good vacuum... so with
a pull they should come off.
Or are you trying to seperate the rotor from the hub... man what
a pain (rust holds them together quite well). You do NOT have to
seperate them to have a rotor turned. A press will make quick
work of that job, if you need to install a new rotor. DO NOT
pound
on the back of the carrier, the area around the grease seal is
soft
and easily distorted. I use a brass rod that fits INSIDE (into
the
bearing area) to tap... some hubs/rotors just pop apart, others
do
not.
Rotor turning: Do you really need to turn them, I do that only
if there are heavy grooves, and then ask a machinist to remove
just the minimum amount possible.
ROTOR THICKNESS: (from the front brake rebuild faq)
New rotors are 0.433" thick, minimum thickness is 0.325".
[From a factory bulletin that stated 11mm new, 8.25 mm minimum.
The early, hard cover, Chilton manual specified a maximum
allowance
of 0.080" for removal... which means 0.353" minimum thickness]
Once a rotor is turned, and the pads are worn down, there is a
good chance of the pads not being "thick" enought to work! The
caliper, and everything else is fully functional, but the piston
will contact the metal support from and push against that...
while
the pad just 'sits there'. Only cure is new rotors! :-( [This
has
stumped quite a few as to why their roadster had 'horrible'
brakes!]
Hope this helps.
Bob
67.5
Moscow
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