Hello fellow roadster owners,
Just wanted to let you know of some recent developments of my electronic
distributors for roadsters. There's a lot of information here about my
recent improvements to the package, and also the new options for advance
characteristics and details about how I build these distributors.
Previous buyers, feel free to chime in to the list, with your positive
or negative comments.
I've lowered the price temporarily to $195 and I've also improved the
package. Details are below. Previous buyers might want to read The Long
Part below to learn more details that you don't yet know about,
regarding how I built your distributor. The price will likely increase
soon, above the previous price, because I've depleted the EI
distributors from all the salvage yards in my area. So, soon I will
have to pay more to get the EI distributors from long distance sources
in order to continue making the conversions. I'll sell 5 more at $195
but afterwards, the price will likely increase to $230 or more. An
alternative to paying the future price increase is for you to find an EI
distributor in a salvage yard in your area and ship it to me. Then,
your price will be $175. If you wish to go that route, send me an email
message and Ill describe what cars to get the distributor from. I will
also ship worldwide (I sent one to Norway a few weeks ago). Obviously,
the typical shipping charge increases for outside of the 48 US states.
To see general and more detailed information on this electronic
distributor package, a photo of the distributor, and the price terms,
which are near the bottom of this web page, click on
http://www.nowroc.com/Webpages/Classifieds.htm
Thanks goes to Daniel Beatty for putting this on his Nowroc site.
To read a description of the difference of how a points distributor
works versus an electronic distributor (I'm not affiliated with this
site, but it's a good description) go to
http://www.cardone.com/english/club/products/electronics/protech/articles/distributors.asp
I will provide my phone # if you would like more info. Just send me an
email message and I'll reply.
Improvements to the package:
I'm now providing a modified fixing plate, so there's no need to do any
extra work to install the distributor.
Simplified and improved instructions include:
1. Instructions for setting the timing without the need for a timing
light or any other electrical device.
2. Wiring schematics for the original ignition system and the modified
wiring system for the new electronic ignition system.
3. Now I'm offering used, tested Nissan 12 volt coils to reduce the
hassle for the buyer of getting a coil to complete the electronic
ignition system. These coils are very reliable, because I've had the
same Nissan coil in my 280ZX, which now has 350,000 miles (I'm the
original owner).
The Short Part:
I've now built 25 electronic roadster distributor conversions. I
haven't gotten a single return or problem from any buyers (except Dave
Mehl's missing ballast resistor, due to a PO wiring change). But if you
are unhappy with it, I will refund your money. Also, I'm providing a
one year warranty. With the improvements I've made to the Nissan EI
distributor design, I believe these distributors will easily last over
250,000 miles with no problem. In the unlikely event you have a problem
after a year, the instruction manual provides a parts list and diagram,
as well as an electrical troubleshooting guide. The only maintenance
required on your part is the occasional replacement of cap and rotor,
which is inexpensive and easy to do. You can get the cap and rotor for
this distributor from your neighborhood parts store, usually in stock
behind their counter.
There is a lot more to a distributor than the points and condenser.
There's a device inside called a mechanical advance mechanism deep
inside the distributor that you can't see unless you pull out the
breaker plate. It needs to operate properly and be set up properly for
the right amount of advance, to make your engine run to its peak
performance.
After getting about 20 original roadster distributors, I've found that
virtually every one of them has the smog advance curve. The smog
advance curve will cause poor performance, along with many other
problems. Also, many of them had grease inside that was so dried up
that it was preventing the mechanical advance mechanism from working at
all.
As a test, I've seen what the spark energy is from this electronic
system. It will consistently jump a 1" wide gap with just the Nissan 12
volt coil, when I've placed the coil spark cable an inch from a grounded
surface. I have a MSD 6AL system in my 2000. I bypassed the MSD
control unit just for a comparison of power difference and did not
notice any significant difference in engine power or torque.
The Long Part:
There is virtually no bushing wear on these electronic distributors
because there is no side force from the spring on the points like in the
original roadster distributor. I have found a very low percentage of
the EI distributors from salvage yards have any wear at all on the shaft
bushings. If there is wear beyond the factory tolerances, I replace the
bushings. But to ensure even better life and performance, I re-assemble
them using Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
The Nissan electronic distributors that I build these conversions from
are very well made with very high quality components made by Nissan,
with one major exception, which I've remedied. With the original Nissan
design, the vacuum breaker plate has a plastic bearing cage, which with
age, will break apart. When this cage fails, the ball bearings can fall
out and this will cause many problems. It will not allow the vacuum
advance mechanism to work at all, and can also allow the reluctor tips
to make contact with the stator tips. Contact of the tips will ruin the
operation of the distributor. I fabricate new bearing cages of teflon
to replace the cheap plastic cage Nissan used. The teflon cage will
last forever, so the only weakness in Nissan's design is eliminated with
this conversion.
Another typical problem with the original roadster distributor is vacuum
breaker plate wear. The ball bearings on which the plates rotate, will
wear grooves in the plates, which will eventually disable the vacuum
advance mechanism. The EI distributors have hardened steel plates on
which the balls ride, so there are no grooves created in the plates by
the ball bearings.
I can offer different mechanical advance characteristics. More
specifically, I can provide a mechanism that allows full advance to be
reached at a lower than stock rpm. This mod will allow full advance at
around 3000 rpm versus the stock mechanism reaching full advance at 3800
rpm. It will still have the desired dual slope advance curve. I've
done this on my 2000 Solex with no problems in driveability, detonation
, etc.
Some people have concerns about the ignition module (mounted on the side
of the distributor housing) failing. Of the 25 EI distributors I have
gotten from salvage yards, not a single one has tested bad. I test each
one a minimum of 3 consecutive times to ensure they are heated up while
being tested. If you are uncomfortable with the module failing later,
you can find one in a salvage yard for about $5, get it tested free at
your auto parts store, and carry it in your glove box. The same module
on my 280ZX lasted 225,000 miles and it's exposed to exhaust heat. The
modules on these roadster distributor conversions are from a car that
the exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the engine from the
distributor.
To make the distributors look nice, I polish the housings and apply a
thin clear coat to prevent aluminum oxidation. I used this same clear
coat on my 2000 cam cover and timing cover a year and half ago after I
polished them, and there has been no cracking or discoloration.
I make wiring harnesses that you get with this distributor, to connect
to the coil. Except for the original Nissan connector to the ignition
module, which is very good, I solder the other connectors, so there will
never be a problem with corrosion. There are no crimped connections
that I do for the harness. I check the resistance of both wires of the
harness to ensure good continuity.
As far as my qualifications for building these distributors, I have a
Bachelors of Science degree in Mechanical Engineering with several years
of on-the-job experience in rotating equipment reliability. So I
understand things like clearances, end float, lubrication, and all the
measurements required to ensure it will operate properly and last a very
long time. All this sounds pretty serious, but I do have sense of
humor. But I take this distributor building seriously.
Enjoy the ride more,
Gary Boone
WyCROC
'70 2000 Solex
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
|