The distributor on the L-16 engine in my '70 PL521 (pickup) has that
same setup - there's a wire connecting the points to the condenser on
the outside of the distributor housing - if I am recalling this
correctly - the truck was totaled and crushed 8 years ago :^(
In my case it was running fine, then the next time I went to start it
up, it did nothing - didn't turn over, no solenoid click, nothing. Two
days of checking things between and after classes (I was in college at
the time) and getting suggestions from friends - and it turned out to be
that wire. Insulation looked fine, but it was broken internally from
sitting up where the rotor would whip it every time around. 2 days to
diagnose, 5 minutes to replace a 67 cent part (in 1980) and on the road
again.
Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA
Mike Harper wrote:
> Check the wires in the distributer as well as changing
> the points. There is an insulated wire that can short
> out causing the symptoms you describe. The dead
> giveaway is when it "kicks in" and runs normal. This
> is likely an ignition problem, and I'll bet it is a
> minor thing, probably a wire that is touching where it
> should not. Just a guess, but...
>
> While you're at it, change the cap, rotor and
> condensor. A new wire set could not hurt...And why
> not some new plugs while we're at it. It's all cheap,
> and $$ well spent. Points replacement is a snap, and
> I'm sure someone local can walk you thru it on the
> phone in a heartbeat. Good luck, I believe you'll be
> back on the road soon.
>
> Mike Harper
> Charleston SC
>
> --- Pagone@aol.com wrote:
> > Here's the scene: cold, foggy morning. Turn key in
> > ignition to start car and
> > warm it up. It starts hesitantly. Idles really low
> > regardless of how far
> > choke is pulled out. Pulling out of driveway it
> > sputters and backfires a few
> > times. (don't know if there's smoke or not).
> > Then I get on road and when in first gear, rpm's
> > stay low and the car has no
> > oomph. Shift into 2nd, still low rpm's, still low
> > oomph. Sometimes when in
> > first, usually in 2nd gear, car "kicks in" and
> > takes off, running normal
> > until I stop at a light. I have found that if I
> > drive with the choke pulled
> > out a bit, it runs a little better.
> > Last week, early in the week, I had problems keeping
> > the car going. It would
> > start, but the rpms would drop and it would sputter.
> > Later in the week it got
> > to the point where it would, no matter what, sputter
> > and die. Had to have it
> > towed a few blocks back home because it would not
> > start. Called buddy. He
> > came over and adjusted the space between the points.
> > Said I'd need to replace
> > the point set soon. After he did that, it drove
> > GREAT over the weekend, and
> > about Tuesday evening when I got into it to go home,
> > it started with the
> > backfiring and slow-going.
> > When buddy was fixing points, he was trying to tune
> > it a little and said he
> > thinks there's a vaccuum problem with the carbs,
> > should get it looked at.
> > That's all . Anyone have any ideas? Can anyone call
> > me and walk me through
> > replacing the points over the phone, if it's not too
> > technical of a job. As
> > I have to report back to the wonderful world of jury
> > duty tomorrow morning, I
> > really fear the car dying in rush-hour traffic in
> > downtown L.A.
> > Gratefully,
> > Vilia
> >
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