Marc,
I liked sticking with good ol' Castrol 20/50 GTX.
Even with our "texas winters" the 20W is fine.
For the colder area's the 10/40 is a good choice.
Problem I had with pure synthetics is the rear main
rope seal. It would leak too much on me! So I used
the "blended" Syntek Castrol. Still changed it every
3000 miles.
Only thought is NOT to use the modern 5/30 oils. Roadsters
were designed, and built, with much larger clearances than
the modern oils that can use a much thinner oil. I suspect
part of the reason for going to such thin oils was to help
improve the CAFE scores (based on Fuel Economy). Might as
well get those Escorts as high a possible to ballance out
the Expidation class vehicles!
How many of you "pre-fill" your new oil filter? I
was changing the oil on the Maxima when a neighbor noticed
me pouring NEW OIL into the filter. He was curious, as it
was convinced it would just make a huge mess when I spun
on the new filter. I do loose a little back out, but not
much. Nice thing is crank the engine, and it fires up with
full oil pressure. No waiting for pressure to build up.
For the roadsters with lose fitting "anti-drain back tubes"
one trick is to clean the filter housing with brake cleaner.
Ditto for the loose tube. Put the tube back into place. Use
the "wicking" formula of Locktite (green stuff, perhaps #290?).
This will help keep the oil up into the filter when the engine
is shut down. Little stuff to help that roadster enjoy a
long life!
Cheers,
Tom Walter
snyler wrote:
> List,
> With all the oil weights now available now, what is the best
> all-round grade for the roadster (1600) Coming into fall and winter now,
> but it rarely goes below the 20s in this part of the country. Any
> thoughts? Any grades to definitely avoid?
>
> -Marc T.
>
> ==========================================================================
> Marc Tyler TDROC Sisterdale TX
> 1970 1600 #SPL311-31016 "The Jaundiced Kid II"
> 1965 L-320 #L320 013642 "Domino"
> http://datsun_marc.tripod.com/cgi-bin/datsun_homepage.html
>
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