Paul,
Use a urethane air dam rather than fiberglass as the urethane is really
tough and can absorb huge amounts of punishment. I had one on a 240 I owned
and when the voltage regulator gave out once I had to get towed. It got bent
like a pretzel when they hoisted my car onto the flatbed but there was no
visible sign of damage anywhere as long as it's painted with flex paint like
mine was.
Check out an airdam for a B as they do make urethane dams for them and they
should be able to be modified to fit on a roadster. Install on the valence.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul" <9laser3@bright.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 5:53 AM
Subject: aerodynamics of racing? II
> I guess I should have been more clear with my first request. While the
> BRE 'spook' sold by Les at CDM is beautiful and worked 30 years ago on the
> track, todays SCCA GP 1600's require a bit more. And with todays bump &
run
> racing, it could be rather expensive to replace every couple of races
too..
> I was looking for information of where to mount one; all the way up on
the
> front valance and fenders or directly under the radiator? The benefits of
> short vs long air dams. Is cold air induction really neccessary with abig
> air dam?
> I did recieve a link " http://www.eng.vt.edu/fluids/msc/auto_a.htm "
that
> I intend to look up tonight (thanks RWM!). Any additional info would be
> apreciated.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Paul
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