Adam and list,
Ok, so I'm stupid. When we say "new" here, do we really mean new?
Are they "new" as in still in a Datsun/Nissan factory box that's been
sitting on a shelf for some time? Are they new as in still in the
Datsun/Nissan box that they continued to manfacture on into the seventies?
Are they new as in OEM equipment produced by a manfactures (like Hitachi)
and they are in a Hitachi box? Or are they completely rebuilt "used"
distributors.
Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
07/20/01 04:20 PM
To: jon_wissler@pngc.com
cc:
Subject: RE: Re-Curving the distributor (Long)
You can definitely get a new or rebuilt non-smog distributor from our
vendors, which I would do over Nissan if only for the experience of the
vendors.
Recurving is not difficult and is inexpensive, but if you're not
comfortable disassembling your distributor then replacing is an easy
way to do it, plus if your cam lobe is worn this'll fix that, too.
Rallye has new (I believe) distributors for around $120 (1600) and $140
(2000). See
http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/NEW_PARTS_PIC_PAGES/221-03.htm
--- jon_wissler@pngc.com wrote:
> Brian,
> Best understandable description I have seen on the subject.
> I've
> always thought my off the line performance was dismal. It's only
> when I
> get revved up above 1500 to 2000 rpm's that I have power, and then I
> get a
> load of it. I advanced my smogger to about 10 last fall and it ran
> better
> in the low end, but getting on it caused it to ping. I just set it
> back
> to zero and it's running pretty darn good with fresh plugs, points,
> cap,
> rotor, and condensor. Since I'm an idiot mechanic, how difficult
> would
> you say it is to "recurve" my current distributor. At one time Les
> and
> Sport Imports claimed to have new in the box non-smog dizzy for $135
> that
> I should have bought right there and then. Any chance there is a NOS
>
> version of the non-smog dizzy in the Nissan system anywhere? Do our
> vendors have them? That way I don't have to worry about my cam lobe
> being
> worn, bad springs, bearings, etc etc etc. My mechanic put a
> pointless
> distributor in our 69 510 with an L20B and it runs awesome. Could
> that
> distributor be modified? What the hell is the advantage to points
> over no
> points, or is there any. It sure seems like the hassle with points
> better
> come with some performance gains.
>
>
>
>
> "Brian Hollands" <bholland@hayes.ds.adp.com>
> Sent by: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> 07/20/01 10:08 AM
> Please respond to "Brian Hollands"
>
>
> To: <Robert.Long@CSDInc.com>, "Datsun Roadster Mailing
> list"
> <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> cc:
> Subject: RE: Re-Curving the distributor (Long)
>
>
> Before the emission controls were put on the roadsters, the
> distributor
> had
> 15 degrees of internal mechanical advance. If you set the ignition
> timing
> at 16 degrees BTDC and then rev the engine you will see - with the
> timing
> light - that the ignition advances or in simpler terms, that the
> spark
> happens sooner. At full mechanical advance, you would see the timing
>
> light
> fire at 31 degrees BTDC in the above example. In order to meet
> emissions
> regs - readings were taken at idle at the time - Nissan retarded the
> timing
> at idle. Emission controlled cars are supposed to be timed at TDC -
> 0
> degrees. The emission cars still need 30-35 degrees of ignition
> advance
> in
> order to make power so Nissan changed the distributor so provide 35
> degrees
> of mechanical advance. This way they could time the car at 0 degrees
> at
> idle but still have the required amount of advance at speed. The
> problem
> is
> that the cars don't run well with the smog distributor. They don't
> make
> good power right off idle don't idle well and are very prone to
> overheating
> when timed at 0 degrees. Nissan tried to fix that problem by adding
> the
> thermal modulator on top of the water neck which is supposed to open
> up a
> vacuum passage when the engine gets too hot. That vacuum goes to the
>
> vacuum
> advance unit which advances the timing until the engine cools back
> down.
> The thermal modulators are often not working or have been
> disconnected by
> people who thought that it's better to just disconnect that emissions
> crap
> not knowing what they are really doing. Many of those folks then
> time the
> car at 16 degrees not realizing that they now have 51 degrees of
> total
> advance which is way too much.
> The solution is to put a new distributor cam and weights into the
> distributor so that it will provide the correct amount of total
> advance as
> well as the correct advance curve - the amount of advance at any
> given
> engine speed. This is called recurving the distributor. It is very
> easy
> to
> do, you just need the correct parts which, I think are still
> available
> from
> the vendors. One other option which I am considering is to change
> distributors entirely. The later electronic distributors like those
> used
> on
> the B-210 can be adapted to the Roadsters and can also be recurved
> with
> many
> different curves being available.
> You can tell how much advance your dist. has built into it by
> removing the
> breaker plate so that you can look inside the dist. You will see a
> number
> stamped on the plate at the bottom of the cam. Most common are 7.5
> and
> 17.5. This number is the degrees of advance the distributor has in
> camshaft
> degrees. Multiply that number by two to see how many crankshaft
> degrees
> that amounts to. 7.5 x 2 = 15 degrees which is a non-smog
> distributor.
> You
> can set the timing at idle at 16-20 degrees. 17.5x2=35. You must
> time a
> car with that distributor at 0 degrees or risk hurting your engine.
> There is more info on dist. swaps at
> http://home.att.net/~jason510/Dizzy_FAQ.htm
> This is L-series info but it applies to the roadsters as well. It
> just
> might not be cook book simple in an R or U series engine.
> Brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> What does it mean/do, when you say you re-curved the distributer?
=====
Adam
'70 1600 SPL311-28181
http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
|