Hey Andrew, a little late but the place I took my datsun to put a 2 inch
pipe all the way to the back. They use a plasma cutter and make a neat hole
that allows for clearance for the exhaust, does not change any of the
structural integrity of the frame. I am having flowmaster put in with the
chrome end welded to the pipe making it one unit. That in combination with
the stainless steel braided hose that Fairlady products sells makes a clean,
neat, nicely installed exhaust system.
Gerardo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Murphy" <solex67@hotmail.com>
To: <robinkrause@hotmail.com>; <ambradley@yahoo.com>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust and other questions
> All,
>
> I cannot sing the praises enough of putting in a flex flange between the
> header and the rest of the exhaust system. I had one on my 67 2000 and
drove
> the car hard for 13,000 miles with nary a rattle. I just recently took the
> header off and it is not cracked and the flange will be cleaned and
> re-attached when I put the car back together.
>
> It allows your exhaust system to "flex" and will help in keeping your
> header/manifold from cracking and causing P.O. muffler shop headaches in
the
> first place.
>
> If you have the exhaust system out of the car, put one of these things in.
>
> Andrew Murphy
> 1964 1500
> 1967 2000 Solex
> SoCalROC
>
>
> From: "Robin Krause" <robinkrause@hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: "Robin Krause" <robinkrause@hotmail.com>
> To: ambradley@yahoo.com, datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Exhaust and other questions
>
> I had the same problem. We wound up using a detached hacksaw blade, which
> worked pretty well for a one time deal.
>
> The stock headers are a lot cheaper than the stock manifolds and easy to
> come by.
>
> Robin
>
> P.S. Gordon Glasgow had a great suggestion, which I haven't tried yet.
You
> are going to have a few inches that you'll need to have a muffler shop
> patch. Gordon recommended having them use flex pipe which will allow the
> exhaust system to be adequately anchored without putting so much stress on
> the header. Gordon, correct me if I translated that badly.
>
> >From: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
> >To: datsun <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Exhaust and other questions
> >Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:17:13 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Some doofus muffler shop cut the flange off the end of the exhaust
> >manifold and welded the downpipe directly onto it (P.O. before P.O.).
> >What is the best (still inexpensive) tool to cut through the pipe?
> >
> >I'm buying a header because it's cracked anyway. Should I take the car
> >to a good muffler shop and having them fabricate something or should I
> >buy the exhaust from Rallye or another vendor? If through a vendor,
> >any preferences (price, quality, ease of installation)?
> >
> >Rallye is a bit pricey ($450 or so for the exhaust system) and I'm not
> >concerned about originality but do want quality and an attractive sound
> >and tailpipe.
> >
> >Now for something completely different. What is a good replacement
> >carb return spring?
> >
> >Finally, the '70 has a thingie (technical term there) on the intake
> >manifold that prevents the car from going immediately to idle in third
> >and fourth (or so I've been told). Two wires go to it; one is busted.
> >Do I want this thing functional, or is it best left disabled?
> >
> >
> >
> >=====
> >Adam
> >'70 1600 SPL311-28181
> >http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> >Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> >a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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