In addition to making sure you have the right stack of parts for your
application, you have to make sure you are using quality parts. Many of the
aftermarket clutch kits are supplied with oddball TO bearings. They are so
called "OEM equivalent" parts. I have rejected several kits like this. They were
close to the right part and most folks wouldn't have noticed the differences,
but they were not acceptable as far as I was concerned. Several had problems
with the contact area where the clutch fingers ride on the bearing. One in
particular I was sure would not contact the fingers correctly. I have also seen
(sealed) kits come with the wrong parts in them. And occasionally I have seen
kits come with covers that just weren't built right and did not give enough
release. If you want o be as sure as you can be, use Nissan brand parts.
datsunmike wrote:
>
> I have to admit that I screwed up while preparing the 5 speed for my car. I
> didn't catch it until I assembled the tranny to the engine and what I
> discovered was that I used a 4 speed throwout bearing sleeve on a 5 speed
> tranny. The sleeves are different and one won't work with the other.
>
> Fortunately I did catch it before I installed the motor in the car but it
> woulda been horrible.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerry gallagher" <jdg1@ix.netcom.com>
> To: "Charlie" <cehubbard@home.com>; "Datsun Roadster Mailing List"
> <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:00 AM
> Subject: RE: 1500 Clutch Problem
>
> > Charlie, List
> >
> > Actually there is another possibility -- unfortunately I know of this from
> > personal experience. On a '69 2000 and I assume other roadsters it is
> > possible to install the clutch throwout fork incorrectly so that it is not
> > positioned on the throwout bearing sleeve correctly. This results in a
> > clutch that almost disengages -- but not quite. If this has happened
> don't
> > wait too long to fix as it contributes to extreme wear on the "fingers" of
> > the clutch pressure plate. I continued to drive my car with a misbehaving
> > clutch for about 700 miles while trying to fix it by trying different
> > hydraulic cylinders and even trying a longer clutch adjustment rod. The
> > clutch "fingers" were almost worn through and I do not want to think of
> the
> > damage that could have occurred if I continued to drive.
> >
> > Good Luck,
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Charlie
> > Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 7:42 PM
> > To: Datsun Roadster Mailing List
> > Subject: 1500 Clutch Problem
> >
> >
> > I just finished rebuilding the engine in my 64 1500. Unfortunately, my
> first
> > test drive has shown that there is a problem with the clutch. The tranny
> > grinds in every gear including 1st. This is all from a stopped position in
> > idle with the clutch all the way in. The front shaft still spins even when
> > stopped with the clutch in. The slave travel is well within the .6 = .8
> inch
> > tolerance. The hydraulics hold pressure and the pilot bushing is new and
> > lubricated. You can slow the spin down by pulling the stick back toward
> 2nd
> > gear and quickly pushing it into first. I think that this simply uses the
> > 2nd gear synchro to slow the shaft down.
> >
> > When driving the car, I can ease it into gears by using the throttle to
> > synchronize the gear speeds. Otherwise...ggggrrrrriiinnnndddd. :o(
> >
> > Putting the clutch in takes all power off the drive train but the clutch
> is
> > not separating completely from the plates. I think that the clutch plate
> is
> > either warped or that the rebuilder muffed it. Has anyone experienced this
> > before. BTW, I did put a light coat of grease on the shaft to allow the
> > clutch free play between the pressure plate and the flywheel. Does anyone
> > think that this could be the problem. Someone suggested that I may have
> put
> > the thing in backwards. I may have but seriously doubt it. Oh well, better
> > get ready to pull the engine again.
> >
> > To top it all off, the new rear main seal still drips oil in quantity. A
> > mechanic friend of mine suggested that partially rotate the seal halves so
> > that the cuts are offset from the joint where the cap joins the block.
> > Anyone ever try that?
> >
> > Charlie Hubbard
> > 1964 SPL310
> > Flower Mound, Texas
> > http://members.home.net/cehubbard/tdroc/
--
Marc Sayer
82 280ZXT
71 510 2.5 Trans Am vintage racer
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