This is the classic symptom for a dirty battery post/connector, or bad
connection in the connector-to-cable. Turn the key on, the minimal power
needs are able to draw from the battery fine, try the starter & the big
demand for current can't be met & (I'm not sure what technical explanation
is) it gives up, release the key & it won't even try to meet that minimal
demand your gen/oil lights want.
Popping the clutch or getting a jump will start the car, generally it
won't be able to charge after that, which your ammeter won't necessarily
show right away but if you have a voltmeter, it will (you'll see 12v
instead of 13.5 to 14).
There can be corrosion inside the cable terminal-end that you can't see,
the cable will look fine but won't work.
Luck--
Tom Stockman
Morrosion, CO
'67.5 1600, 300K+
> Hey Folks,
>
> Decided to drive the 64 1500 into work today as it is a warm and sunny day
> here in SoCal. Everything was fine until I decided to take the car to go get
> lunch. As I tried to start the car I heard a sharp click and then nothing. I
> mean nothing. The IGN and OIL pressure lights would come on but turn off as
> I turned the key to try and start the car.
>
> There are no headlights or tail lights or brake lights, but the radio and
> map light work. I am thinking fuse or relay or some kind or possibly a
> short.
>
> I was able to push start the car by myself (I am so glad these cars are so
> light!) and drove it home to pick up my joe car. I will probably work on the
> problem this weekend.
>
> I will check the fuses first. I hope it is that easy and that it wasn't
> caused by a short. Is there a relay I should check for? How do I
> troubleshoot a short to positive ground if that is the issue?
>
> Anyhow, just looking for ideas.
>
>
> Andrew Murphy
> 64 1500
> 67 2000 Solex
> SoCalROC
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