Brad, Fred has given you a good start.
You might be able to remove the top studs without pulling the head. Remove
the nuts and washers and then see if there's enough thread to use two nuts
as a jam. (I did)
You have to drop the oil pan. consider getting a new gasket now just in
case.
Crank pulley/ Harmonic Balancer nut is VERY tight, chock the wheels, put it
in fifth, E brake on, and you can break it no sweat.
The balancer can be pushed off using the 2 threaded holes in the balancer.
be sure to use something steel behind the bolt you'll use to protect the
timing chain cover. A puller is a better way, I didn't have one on hand so I
used this method.
Give your self some extra time, this is a great time to clean up the front
of your engine, paint the pulleys, radiator, shroud, frame member and others
As Fred said inspect the timming components! I concur with deleting the
lower guide, it seems to serve no fuction except failing. Take a look at the
bolts in the upper guide as well. A loose chain grinds on them Yikes!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us [mailto:Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us]
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 9:36 AM
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net; Brad Holmes
Subject: Re: 2L Front engine cover
>1. Is the cover a pretty straight forward removal?
>(2 piece gasket, and front cover oil seal?)
The two studs that anchor the water pump may give you grief in removing the
cover. Carefully work the cover off in this area. After cleaning all
surfaces
(including the studs), put some anti-sieze on the studs to prevent future
removal problems.
>3. Is the front oil seal pressed in? Special tools, instructions?
Find a large roll of duct tape that has an inner diameter just
larger than the hole in the cover. Place it on a workbench, with
the cover on top. Use a rubber mallet to tap the new seal into
place.
>6. If the cover is removed / repaired, is there anything else
>that should be replaced, inspected, adjusted etc, while the cover
>is off?
Consider removing the lower tensioner guide, as it is not all that
necessary, but if it breaks can cause a lot of damage. I've had that
happen in the past; since then I've been running my engines without it
without problems.
Also inspect the gear teeth for wear between the teeth. If the valley
between the teeth is not a straight slope but has a wear pattern like
large circles then your gears need replacing.
Also if the evil-L on the upper guide is notched then you should
consider breaking off the evil-L before it does it on it's own.
Fred - So.SF
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