I want my cookie - Actually I'm in a hotel room in NJ and there's nothing on
TV.
If what is going on here is that the switch works properly in the first
position (running lights only on) but the running lights go off when you
pull the switch all the way out (headlights on) then the problem should be
the switch. In the first position (running lights) the switch sends power
from the in (GW) to the dash and running lights (GL - I think). In the
second position (headlights on) the switch should provide power to BOTH the
GL and RY (Red Yellow to the headlamp relay). Sounds like when you move the
switch to the headlamp on position, you're losing contact with the running
light terminal. That's an internal problem in the switch. Easy to test by
bypassing the switch. Take two wires and strip the insulation off of both
ends. Crimp a male spade connector to one end of each wire. Put the other
ends of both wires together and crimp a single male spade connector over
both ends. Take the plug off of the switch and Plug one single wire end
spade connector into the GL (Green Blue - power to the running lights) and
the other single end into the RY (Red Yellow - to the headlights). Insert
the spade connector with both wire ends into the GW (power in) terminal on
the plug. If you have both head lights and tail/marker lights, you need a
new light switch. If you continue to have the same problem - look at the
possibility of an incorrectly installed turn signal/high beam switch as
mentioned in another post - Or move out of the Bermuda Triangle.
I'm suspecting the switch. I think the high beam's not switching off is
actually a separate problem - relay or high beam switch.
BTW - the wiring diagram is not on Gordon's page - that's just a link. I
think the diagram is on the CDM site - one of the vendor sites anyway. It
appears that the problem that I mentioned with that diagram earlier is that
there should be a dot at the point were GL coming out of terminal 3 on the
light switch intersects the RL going into the Rheostat. Let me know if
there is a Black wire going into the light switch on your car as indicated
in the diagram. If there is, check that it has good continuity to ground.
Bad grounds can cause all sorts of weird problems.
Brian
Brian Hollands
Client Operations Analyst
ADP/Hayes-Ligon
(813) 672-4408 Office
(800) 523-8477x414 Voice Mail
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ofarrell, Fergus
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:21 AM
To: 'roadster.netlist'
Subject: light switch frustration ongoing
Okay,
nobody wins a cookie for diagnosing my non-running tail lights, but Brian
(see below) comes the closest.
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