>An engine stand is only good for doing complete overhauls, when you need to
>turn the motor over continuiously. For changing the clutch, I just lower
>the hoist to allow the engine and transmission to sit on the ground then
>unbolt them to seperate them, then rehoist the engine alone to put it on a
>table to change the clutch. And when you change the clutch, take the
>Flywheel to a machine shop to let them reface it. If you take the Clutch
>Pressure Plate along, have them balance them together. It may stop the
>Exhaust Pipe from rattling against the frame. It is just as important as
>having your Brake Rotors cut. And another extremely important item is the
>Pilot bearing, that is inside the Flywheel. It is usually a bronze bearing,
>but in my Son's Mustang it is a ball bearing. if it is dry, change it. If
>it still has grease in/on it, maybe you can get away with just putting
>grease in it.
True, but I like to pull the pan on a motor while it's out, and you need
some sort of stand to allow that. Looking inside the bottom end can tell
you a lot about the overall condition of the motor. I also would suggest
having the flywheel and pressure plate balanced separately. Doing it
separately shouldn't throw the assembly out of balance if you replace the
PP again later. Find a quality machine shop, not an auto supply with a
shop in back.
I don't remember the part number off the top of my head, but Nissan has a
roller type pilot bearing to replace the bushing, if you want. Also don't
remember if the HD pressure plate (20111) will work on the R-16, but I
think it will. MUCH stronger than the stock unit. Might be too stiff for
your taste, but it works well and lasts.
FWIW, Ron
Ronnie Day
ronday@home.com
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
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